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Guys thanks for the help so far everybody. I'm halfway through pulling it apart again just to make 100% sure the alignment is right. Where should the front cylinder be to know the rear is on TDC on compression? I'm just trying to make sure everything is right
Guys thanks for the help so far everybody. I'm halfway through pulling it apart again just to make 100% sure the alignment is right. Where should the front cylinder be to know the rear is on TDC on compression? I'm just trying to make sure everything is right
Pull the cam chest cover and when the dots (timing marks) on the crank and rear cam line up the rear cylinder is at TDC of compression stroke (without pr's). Or with the pr's installed pull the rear spark plug and hold your finger over the hole and turn the rear wheel in gear. The compression will try to blow your finger off the hole. Thus on the comp stroke. Then stick a straw down the hole to adjust the piston to the top of the stroke. It doesn't have to be perfect, you just want the pr's on the base circle.
I about to start my own install of 255's into my 96" street bob.
I'm putting them in myself with stock pushrods ( no stranger to my rocker boxes) using the fuelmoto kit and a tts master tune ( canned for now until I can afford a good dyno tune)
I'm just wondering if I need to be concerned with anything else...tapets, or otherwise when I do this.
I about to start my own install of 255's into my 96" street bob.
I'm putting them in myself with stock pushrods ( no stranger to my rocker boxes) using the fuelmoto kit and a tts master tune ( canned for now until I can afford a good dyno tune)
I'm just wondering if I need to be concerned with anything else...tapets, or otherwise when I do this.
Your bike but why don't you want to use the SE tapered adjustable push-rods?
Mostly $, if they aren't bent I didn't even intend to replace them...I'd rather spend more time and keep cost down, I'm rubbin pennies together to make this upgrade happen.
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