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Just went through this changing my rear tire, some anti seize on the inside flat of the nut keeps the cam from turning as you tighten the nut (as per manual) to 105 ft/lbs
I also lubed the nut and the cam... The cam still rotated when tightening the nut.
Somebody makes a groovy adjustment assist tool for the left side that braces against the swingarm, and maintains the left side position while torquing the right side, I just can't remember who.
Somebody makes a groovy adjustment assist tool for the left side that braces against the swingarm, and maintains the left side position while torquing the right side, I just can't remember who.
Using the "third hand tool" will make it impossible for the right side camplate to move out of adjustment while torquing the nut other than the small amount of freeplay it has on the axle.
I made one for $7. Works well and the custom lower shock washer I made allows me to leave it in place if I want. It came in handy while fine tuning the alignment after modifying my swingarm when the belt was coming loose.
1 make sure you have slack in the belt and both cams are against tabs with slack taken out of right side cam.
2 Holding the left welded nut, Tighten the right side nut to 25 ft lbs.
3 Very slowly turn the left side welded nut clockwise until belt has proper tension.
4 Hold left side welded nut and torque right side nut to specs.
If you want to check rear wheel alignment, Pop the dust caps off the
swingarm shaft on both sides and measure from the center of the swingarm shaft to center of rear axle.
Thanks a lot for the help guys, very appreciated.
I'll report back if I have any problems. These cams seems like a small pita.
thanks for the tip on where to measure from, that will come in handy.
peace
Using the "third hand tool" will make it impossible for the right side camplate to move out of adjustment while torquing the nut other than the small amount of freeplay it has on the axle...
And that freeplay is exactly the movement I was referring to. That freeplay, while fairly insignificant, compromises the precision of the alignment to a point. It's probably well within an acceptable range of tolerance for most all applications, but it does compromise the precision that is otherwise achievable with other designs. This is the reason for the comment in my first post where I said I do not like this design. But then again, I'm a little **** when it comes to precision.
Originally Posted by ShadowMonster
Ensure the inner surface of the cam that mates up against the swing arm is clean and free of any lube or grease and it should stay put.
If the inside is clean and dry the friction there should be greater than the friction on the lubed side and therefore the cam shouldn't move. That's the theory. But in my experience I haven't found that to be the case.
Originally Posted by Ronp42
The method I use and never had a problem is,
1 make sure you have slack in the belt and both cams are against tabs with slack taken out of right side cam.
2 Holding the left welded nut, Tighten the right side nut to 25 ft lbs.
3 Very slowly turn the left side welded nut clockwise until belt has proper tension.
4 Hold left side welded nut and torque right side nut to specs.
If you want to check rear wheel alignment, Pop the dust caps off the
swingarm shaft on both sides and measure from the center of the swingarm shaft to center of rear axle.
This is a very similar process to the way I did mine. But when applying the final torque as in your step 4, the cam rotates. Again, not much, but enough that I believe other designs can achieve a higher degree of accuracy, even though they may take a little more effort. For a quick, foolproof method of getting "in the ballpark" the cam system is great.
It is possible to have the cam inside out. I did it and had to flip it over.
This sounds like your problem. The adjustment cams should mate up to the swing arm tab and look the same on both sides, then the rear tire is straight with swing arm. Once this is done if your bike pulls then you might need to check alignment. Check out how this guy does it.
And that freeplay is exactly the movement I was referring to. That freeplay, while fairly insignificant, compromises the precision of the alignment to a point. It's probably well within an acceptable range of tolerance for most all applications, but it does compromise the precision that is otherwise achievable with other designs. This is the reason for the comment in my first post where I said I do not like this design. But then again, I'm a little **** when it comes to precision
I agree, it is not the best design. It was designed in the interest of economy & simplicity. I would think that the small amount of freeplay was taken into consideration when this system was designed.
I actually welded a new nub on the left (welded camplate) side and ground it to exacting dimensions squaring the axle with the swing arm shaft.
The problem I had was the conversion from a 1" axle to a 25mm axle. That left too much clearance and even with the correct torque the axle would move up & down in the opening on the left side, allowing the cam plate to slip enough and loosen the belt.
These are problems not normally found but it was a custom, widened swingarm that was mistakenly welded about 1/8" on the shortside, on the left leg. Once the nub was redone and an axle shim was installed, all is well.
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