Thinking about installing or having installed a set of batwing pull back bars on my ride, '09 Ultra. Should bring the bars back about 2" toward me and hopefully ease some of the pain on my back. Has anybody done this? Results? Special tools needed? Difficulty? Time to make the change? Is it something the can be readily done by the rider? Additional parts needed? Putting the same grips and mounts back, not changing wiring. COST???

 

The actual process of changing out the bars is not all that bad. Take the front of the fairing off, unbolt fairing and tilt it forward, remove key lock mechanism pull off plastic cover to expose bar clamp. Bar clamp is four bolts. Remove controls from handlebars remove bars and reverse thr operation to install new bars. If you do not need to change wires or cables it is pretty straight forward. Service manual is helpful if you have one or can get one very valuable for only $60.

If changing cables once again pretty straight forward worst part is bleeding the front brakes once new brake line is installed but not all that bad if you have someone to help you at least pump the brake.

I installed the Prime Apes this winter on my Ultra. Never did it before but after dealer wanted $850 just for the install I said I am going to give this a try. I had to extend all my wires and ran them throughthe bars, changes brake and clutch cables as well. Most time was spent on extending wires and getting them through the bars, rest of the job was fairly easy. Basic tools required, nothing special needed.

 

I didn't install these myself, but I just had these installed by my dealer at the 1K service on a 2012 Limited.

They installed the "Batwing Pull Back Handlebar" (#56176-08 @ $149.95 list). The install required the twist grip sensor kit (#32310-08 @ $99.95 list). It did not require a longer clutch cable or longer front brake lines.

They charged me 2 hours labor for the install and the wires were run inside the bars.

I like the bars and the way they feel. While researching these bars on this site, several people complained of the grip angle. They said it felt like a wheelbarrow. When I first checked out the bars, prior to installation, they did seem to have a much different grip angle. Once installed and after riding a couple hundred miles, I don't notice the difference and they feel comfortable.

For comparison, I'm 5'8" and the stock position was good, just a tad too forward to let me lean back at all. I travel with a bag on passenger seat & like to lean against it sometimes. These bars provide a relaxed arm position and let me lean back without going completely straight arm.

I hope this information helps...


PS- For heaven's sake Jay, put some clothes on.....!

 

I had these on my 04 EGC when I bought it 2 years ago. I always felt they came back too far and had that "wheel barrow" effect. I tried to get use to them for over a year. Finally bought a used OEM bar and swapped it out. Much happier with the OEM bars. I never had any of the back pain many have complained about with either bars.

Since mine is a cable throttle it took a bit more time but still maybe 3-4 hours only because I had never done it before. I believe the previous owner had put on a longer brake line but I think everything else was stock. Just popped the front fairing off and slid back the radio enough to expose the riser bolts to remove the bars. Pretty easy especially with the manual which I printed out online.

 

The hardest part was getting a clear idea off what parts to order...and getting the wire ends to release from the Molex connectors.....the rest went quit well with no fubars with the wiring....get a decent molex tool dont do like I did and try to make one, that sucked more than the whole project.

 

You realize that all the pullback your getting, is from the wrist angle being more inward?

The bars are not swept back or longer, they just have the ends bent in towards you. Think of a wheelbarrow/beach bar feeling.

 

Molex Pins: This is my story...

I sat there and fought with these one night for hours using a paperclip and did not get 1 wire out. The next day I took them to the HD shop and was going to buy the "Molex Pin Tool". The guy at in the service department said no just use a paperclip. I told him I tried and it did not work. He said let me show you. I stood there as he pushed, pulled, and twisted for 5 minutes and got one wire out. he said see it's a PITA but it works.

On my way home I said to myself it can't be that hard, YOU NEED THREE HANDS TO DO THIS!!!

When I got home I gave my my wife a paperclip and I held the wire clip in one hand and one wire with the other. I told her to push the paperclip in the hole, heard a pop, I pushed the wire in and twisted a little and out it came. Repeated process for each wire. All wires out of both clips in less than 5 minutes.

 

If I'm not changing the wiring route, external to internal, I shouldn't have to change, or add, anything like Molex connectors, throttle twist sensors, cables or grips. just changing the bars. No I didn't realize that the pull back bars only changed the angle of the grips. I was of the understanding that the bars themselves were swept back and extended. Is this not the case? BTW, I did have clothes on, have you ever heard of the "Emperors' New Suit?"

 

I found out the hard way about Molex connectors. A paperclip will work BUT you first have to unsnap on the insert in front (do not pull it out all the way), then use the paper clip. The insert in front actually locks the pins in place.

 

One of the first mods I did on my 09 Ultra was handlebars.
I had Khromewerks +2 wide sweepers on my 06 Standard , so I got the same for the 09.
Part # 300515.
Nice thing about the 09 Ultra is that it already has a 1 piece top clamp.
The only thing I "had" to do was a +3" clutch cable , which is a more or less stock part through Harley.
The bars were about $90.00 shipped.
Clutch cable was about $30.00 (standard black , plain)
I did Kuryakyn ISO grips $80.00 .
Transmission cover gasket ~ $10.00 If I remember correctly.
I made an ignition switch tool before I did the bars , cost $0

The tool is a 9" piece of 3/8" steel tubing with a 90 degree bend at the end.
Just crush flat the first 4" of the straight end and you have the "special" alignment tool.
An inch pound and foot pound torque wrench are needed and a bottle of blue locktite.
Factory manual and about 6 hours are all that's needed.
I ran the wires outside the bars like stock and the TP sensor through the bars like stock.
All wiring was long enough too.
I don't have ABS , so the only brake mod was to turn slightly the hose at the master cylinder for clearance on the new bars.
Not a hard job , just time consuming .
I found out almost every procedure here on the forum and the factory manual.
Good luck.
Mick