Ahhhh, a dreaded oil question :(
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,998
Likes: 655
From: bklyn,ny
Some oils have better additive packages than others. I have never owned an air cooled bike that didn't have an oil cooler and thermostat. I think it's a must have if running dino oil. check this out:
http://www.thunderpress.net/Articles...otorhead_Memo/
http://www.thunderpress.net/Articles...otorhead_Memo/
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,600
Likes: 7
From: Minnesota
I am about due for an oil change, and I am switching back to Dino Oil, (Amsoil) synthetic is too noisy on the top end.
Can I just buy some good old 20W50 @ Walmart? do I have to use non energy conserving like I did with my metric, or doesn't it matter since it doesn't lube the clutch.
Sorry for the dreaded Oil question, but I need to know.
Can I just buy some good old 20W50 @ Walmart? do I have to use non energy conserving like I did with my metric, or doesn't it matter since it doesn't lube the clutch.
Sorry for the dreaded Oil question, but I need to know.
They have Mobil 1 V-Twin in 20W50 and Mobil 1 15W50 both are synthetic.
Thread Starter
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,618
Likes: 290
From: Johnstown, PA
You may be right, It's been pushing 10 years since my last air cooled bike. I used to buy my 20w50 at wallyworld, but they may not have it anymore. If not I will go to Advanced Auto or Autozone.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 34
From: Maryland
Some oils have better additive packages than others. I have never owned an air cooled bike that didn't have an oil cooler and thermostat. I think it's a must have if running dino oil. check this out:
http://www.thunderpress.net/Articles...otorhead_Memo/
http://www.thunderpress.net/Articles...otorhead_Memo/
The destruction of additives and oil lasting forever are very good points as well. Seems like we should all have machines in our garage to add the additives back into our oil. Or maybe some additives actually add it back in for us? No more oil changes would be nice.
Either way, it sure reinforces using synthetic in my bike. Makes me think a lot harder about a better synthetic than S3 too.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 6,532
Likes: 132
From: SoCal
Quite an article! Did a little looking and he seems to be well published as well. Flash points were interesting as well as true synthetics. Sure makes Redline sound like the best. But even though it base is considered the best protection from high temp operation 2 have a higher flash point.
The destruction of additives and oil lasting forever are very good points as well. Seems like we should all have machines in our garage to add the additives back into our oil. Or maybe some additives actually add it back in for us? No more oil changes would be nice.
Either way, it sure reinforces using synthetic in my bike. Makes me think a lot harder about a better synthetic than S3 too.
The destruction of additives and oil lasting forever are very good points as well. Seems like we should all have machines in our garage to add the additives back into our oil. Or maybe some additives actually add it back in for us? No more oil changes would be nice.
Either way, it sure reinforces using synthetic in my bike. Makes me think a lot harder about a better synthetic than S3 too.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 34
From: Maryland
Keep in mind that some dino oil flash points are higher than synthetics, yes Mobil 1(V-Twin) and Amsoil(MCV) even, VR1 20w/50 dino is higher than either. Just because the public has been spoon fed the idea that syn oils handle heat better than dino oils doesn't make it true of every dino oil. Do your own research and find out for yourself, don't take my word or anyone else's word for it. I will say that my research has led me to the conclusion that Redline handles the heat the best. But some Redline oils have higher flash points than others and thats true of every oil companies products.
Walmart has castrol gtx in the 20w-50 flavour. Here anyway.
As far as oil goes a name brand,changed at proper intervals will help your bike live a long life.
The whole mineral vs synthetic has so much half truths and utter nonsense it's tough to get it all straight. I have used oil analysis' done on pennzoil 20w-50 and amsoil v-twin so I could cut through the junk and get real world answers.
Dino protects just as well as synthetic however synthetic lasts longer due to the fact it's pure,with no contaminants.
The more slippery nonsense coupled with the once you switch to syn you can't use mineral anymore is another falacy.
Try red line if top end noise was your issue. It's great stuff. I just put royal purple auto 20w-50 in mine and top end noise is almost non existent.
As far as oil goes a name brand,changed at proper intervals will help your bike live a long life.
The whole mineral vs synthetic has so much half truths and utter nonsense it's tough to get it all straight. I have used oil analysis' done on pennzoil 20w-50 and amsoil v-twin so I could cut through the junk and get real world answers.
Dino protects just as well as synthetic however synthetic lasts longer due to the fact it's pure,with no contaminants.
The more slippery nonsense coupled with the once you switch to syn you can't use mineral anymore is another falacy.
Try red line if top end noise was your issue. It's great stuff. I just put royal purple auto 20w-50 in mine and top end noise is almost non existent.
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I decided to try synthetic on my last bike with the TC88. The bike had an oil temperature gauge that showed 15 degrees cooler, consistently with the synthetic. That spoke volumes to me about reducing friction so I stayed with synthetic. Switched the RK over at the 1000 mile service.
