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Lights went out at 3am!

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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 07:09 PM
  #11  
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Yea, the light, headlight only, none of the running lights, would come on when either the front or rear brake was applied. Been a long day so it's parked, I'll at least pull the seat and get access to the fuse box to take a look and see what I can find. Anyone got a wiring schematic handy than can be emailed? FWIW once I put the 20A in, everything was peachy and normal for the rest of the 160 mile trip.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 07:26 PM
  #12  
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Almost sounds like moisture found it's way into the wrong place (for you and the previous poster, who changed his to 20A in '09). Maybe try another 15, now that it's been awhile, and see what happens. If it stays good, time to start sealing connectors.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 06:51 AM
  #13  
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Maybe, but don't see how, it's been bone dry for awhile now and the bike stays under a fitted cover and in a garage when not in use. of course it could be cummulative, something corroding or building up from years past> I'll get a better idea tonight after work when I get a chance to look over it.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 08:43 AM
  #14  
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I am on board with the ground idea. No elec engineer, but I know my boat trailer did that once and sure enough, bad ground wire connection. I will stay tuned to see what the ultimate outcome is. Was hoping you would say it was a road king, not an EG just for a little easier tracing of wires. Good luck and let us know.
EDIT: No idea why a bad ground would be fixed with a higher amp fuse??
Kris
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 09:18 AM
  #15  
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Lets just for fun start with the brake circuit. Light comes on when brakes are on.....
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 09:22 AM
  #16  
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There was just recently another thread where a guy was blowing his fuse every time he tried to go to high beams. The consensus there was it was probably due to a pinched wire or bad connection. Check all the headlight circuit connections, clean them and use dielectric grease on the connections. Also check for pinched or damaged wiring.

Typically you don't want to run a bigger fuse because the factory fuse size is matched to the gauge of wiring used in the circuit, so using a larger fuse can allow more juice to flow through the wire than the wire can handle = overheating = burnt wiring. You might be lulled into a false sense of security initially because there's not excessive juice flowing through and therefore the bigger fuse "seems OK", but should something happen in the future that causes a surge then the fuse won't blow like it's supposed to and your wiring will not be protected. It's a lot cheaper replacing a fuse than replacing wiring!
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 10:29 AM
  #17  
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My head and spot lights went out one day. I traced it back to a hog the previous owner installed on the front fender. It's eyes light up. Where the wire was going through the front fender had rubbed a hole in the wire plus the wire was touching my tire. As I started to move it would blow the fuse because of the raised lettering on the tires would push the bare spot into the fender. My brake lights would work and my accessory lights would work but no head light or spots. I'd look in the fenders for a rubbed wire. Although with the headlight coming on when the brakes are applied it sounds like you have something far bigger going on.
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 10:36 AM
  #18  
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I'm a bit lost. Maybe I read it wrong. You're saying that after the spare 15A fuse blew, the headlight still came on when the brake was applied?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 02:48 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by SinisterFLHTCI
My head and spot lights went out one day. I traced it back to a hog the previous owner installed on the front fender.
Best laugh I've had all day
 
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Old Jun 12, 2012 | 04:14 PM
  #20  
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I remember my old man had one of those hog heads on his front bumper on his 79 Electra Glide. Seems like he had the same problem with the wire and eventually cut all the wiring from it so it didn't light up anymore. Almost forgot about that hog, lol.
 
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