I want to start a new thread, as I was originally posting in the "engine cooling" thread and was getting off it's original theme.

I have an electical issue somewhere along my acc circuit between my switch on the front left rear nacelle (I have 2011 Road King Classic) and the ACC plug under my seat. Please see the posts below on all the testing I have done to isolate the problem. I would greatly appreciate any feedback on how to get access to the ACC switch without taking my nacelle apart, if possible. Thanks in advance.

Posts:

"OK, just finished testing and here is what I found. Fuses are fine. It's actually the P&A fuse (#3). Pulled that out and tested it and was OK. Then I tested for voltage at the acc. socket under the seat w/ Ign on and ACC switch on. Nothing. Then I tested for resistance and found significant values pop up on my multimeter. I therefore surmise it is a break or crimp in the wiring somewhere along the line. So, what would be my next step? Do I need to remove my tank and try to follow the line, should my dealer get involved? is there a straightforward way to test the switch on the nacelle itself. More guidance and input is appreciated. Thanks.

Edit: I also tested the #2 position in the acc socket which if you push the brake pedal should register 12v or so. mine was 12.2v. I also tested position #1 which is hot always with ignition on and also got 12.2v., so there is definitely something wrong between the acc socket under the seat and the switch on the nacelle.

TedMan
__________________
2011 FLHRC103

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by TedMan; Yesterday at 08:08 PM. Reason: Update


TedMan
View Public Profile
Send a private message to TedMan
Send email to TedMan
Find all posts by TedMan
Add TedMan to Your Contacts

#507 Yesterday, 08:16 PM
Mike_M
Prospect
2011 HD Electra Glide
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 200



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pull the cap off (go to post # 5 & 6 in the Inner Fairing Removal thread), you won't have to pull the entire fairing to take just the cap off. You'll then have access to the back of the ACC switch, as well as the other end of the wires that you have under your seat. Someone posted earlier which color wires go to what. I can get my fairing cap off in about five minutes or so if I'm working slow.

Unplug the switch wires one at a time and test them with your multi-meter (to the wires under your seat); this will tell you if there's a break between the ACC switch and the plug.

If the wires test ok, then check the terminals on the switch itself to see if you've got a bad switch: Use the ohmmeter and it should go from 0 (no connection) to some number higher than 0 (connection) when you throw the switch.

Cheers


Mike_M
View Public Profile
Send a private message to Mike_M
Find all posts by Mike_M
Add Mike_M to Your Contacts

#508 Yesterday, 10:45 PM
TedMan
Road Master
Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,083



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for the testing procedure, Mike. I have a Road King Classic, so am I looking at having to take the nacelle apart? Seems Iclick mentioned at one time can remove locking ring on the ACC switch w/o having to tear down nacelle.

TedMan

 

Missed the RK Classic part. Sorry.

Looking for a pic of where the acc switch is located--if you can access the back of the switch, you should be able to just use the ohmmeter function on your multi-meter to check for continuity of the wires without having to pull your tank.

I'll let you know what I find out.

Cheers