Primary Chain Slapping
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: King George, VA
Yes, I checked those too. They look good despite the miliage.
I recently replaced the compensator spring plate because I could shake it and it would rattle.
I recently replaced the compensator spring plate because I could shake it and it would rattle.
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From: Minnesota
BTW With the SE comp it is an assembly of disk springs consisting of 2 each of large, medium & small and have to be oriented in a specific direction. You call it a spring plate but maybe it is different with the stock comp or maybe you are just using different words to describe the same thing.
Last edited by Potato_Potato; Jun 28, 2012 at 11:43 PM.
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From: King George, VA
Just an idea but how recently did you replace the compensator spring plate? They always say check the last modification you did preceding the problem. I haven’t a clue how that could screw with your chain tension though.
BTW With the SE comp it is an assembly of disk springs consisting of 2 each of large, medium & small and have to be oriented in a specific direction. You call it a spring plate but maybe it is different with the stock comp or maybe you are just using different words to describe the same thing.
BTW With the SE comp it is an assembly of disk springs consisting of 2 each of large, medium & small and have to be oriented in a specific direction. You call it a spring plate but maybe it is different with the stock comp or maybe you are just using different words to describe the same thing.
Since then, I have had the motor overhauled due to a blown head gasket and subsequently, the excessive runout on the crank, thanks to Patriot Harley of Fairfax, VA. They did my 103 stage V engine build and I only got about 35K miles out of it. The service manager said it was my fault because I probably didn't do the right kind of maintenance on the bike.
Anyway, the stroker crankshaft has been replaced with the stock crank again and chain slap problem persists. The builder of my current 107 motor checked the runout on the crank before proceding with the build.
I had the bike up on the lift again last night with the plugs pulled. Rolling the motor while checking the chain. There is very little difference in the amount of slack anywhere on the chain. Adjusting the tensioner up one little notch leaves the chain with about 1/8" of freeplay. Way to tight when compared to the specs.
So I guess the question is, should the difference be between 1/8" and 7/8" slack with one notch difference in the tensioner? The tensioner only moves about 1/8" itself but I guess that's amplified because the measurement at the top of the chain is more along a straight edge between the top of the sprocket plates than on the bottom of the chain.
Last edited by EasternSP; Jun 29, 2012 at 07:43 AM.
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From: Newport news, Virginia
Although one notch / 1/8" is a bit tight...have you tried a test run with it set that way to see if the slap goes away or lessens? You do not have to go far or dog it just a quick jaunt to test it out?
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From: King George, VA
I was considering that. I'll give it a shot in a little bit. Had to pick up some concrete on the way home from work today so had to take the truck to work. I finished adjusting the chain at about 2:30AM and didn't want to run the bike in consideration of the neighbors.
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From: Oklahoma
I've never seen the primary run with the cover off but it seems to me that the top side of the chain would be tight when the engine is pulling and the noise must be from a different source. A worn or sloppy comp might be banging around under this situation.
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From: King George, VA
Welll, as I noted earlier, the comp is fairly new and reinstalled during the recent engine rebuild. The builder is renowned for his meticulous work and I told him I didn't want him to cut any corners.
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