Who's running 50wt?
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,044
Likes: 13
From: Broken Bow Oklahoma
in my 06 EGC starting at 3000 miles I have run Valoline 50w not VR1, year round here in AR. temp from 65-105F. and just did SE cam change at 48,000 miles inner tentioner still had 80% thickness outer looked almost new.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 3,140
Likes: 17
From: Wisconsin
I'm just jerkin' your chain cause I can and statements like this always amaze me. How do you know the motor didn't suffer any harm? Because it started up and ran again? Did you take it apart? Scope the inside? Ok, that was my bitch about some of the statements people make, but I'm willing to bet that straight 50 did no harm, also. I run straight 50 in my shovel all the time, hot or cold, many times in temps down to freezing. Had almost 80,000 on the cylinders and heads when I broke a valve seat, tore her apart and everything else inside her looked just fine.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,575
Likes: 7
From: Wisconsin
I'm not sure I want to know how hot that is. I'll also refrain from asking how you know this information.
I run M1 20w50 V-Twin. It's good stuff and handles any heat I've experienced well. I haven't been around satan's ***** though (nor am I going there) so M1 20w50 V-Twin might not be so good in that application...
I can build no enthusiasm for running straight 50wt oil with the availability of todays very advanced synthetics.
I run M1 20w50 V-Twin. It's good stuff and handles any heat I've experienced well. I haven't been around satan's ***** though (nor am I going there) so M1 20w50 V-Twin might not be so good in that application...
I can build no enthusiasm for running straight 50wt oil with the availability of todays very advanced synthetics.
Last edited by equandt; Jul 11, 2012 at 04:26 PM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
I'm not sure I want to know how hot that is. I'll also refrain from asking how you know this information.
I run M1 20w50 V-Twin. It's good stuff and handles any heat I've experienced well. I haven't been around satan's ***** though (nor am I going there) so M1 20w50 V-Twin might not be so good in that application...
I can build no enthusiasm for running straight 50wt oil with the availability of todays very advanced synthetics.
I run M1 20w50 V-Twin. It's good stuff and handles any heat I've experienced well. I haven't been around satan's ***** though (nor am I going there) so M1 20w50 V-Twin might not be so good in that application...
I can build no enthusiasm for running straight 50wt oil with the availability of todays very advanced synthetics.
So I have a couple of questions now -
The manual states that if a "Harley approved oil" can not be obtained, that anything rated for a diesel would be sufficient.
I run Rotella 50w in my Cummins 5.9, I ran it in my 7.3 International, and it was highly recommended by Honda mechanics for my CR450F race bike with Hot Cams and a high compression piston.
All the above vehicles have never had an oil related problem, and although I did not pull the diesels apart, the Honda looked flawless when I pulled it apart.
Harley also doesn't state weather or not Diesel oil can be used in the primary, trans, and main, or if this is specific to the main....
any input on this?
The manual states that if a "Harley approved oil" can not be obtained, that anything rated for a diesel would be sufficient.
I run Rotella 50w in my Cummins 5.9, I ran it in my 7.3 International, and it was highly recommended by Honda mechanics for my CR450F race bike with Hot Cams and a high compression piston.
All the above vehicles have never had an oil related problem, and although I did not pull the diesels apart, the Honda looked flawless when I pulled it apart.
Harley also doesn't state weather or not Diesel oil can be used in the primary, trans, and main, or if this is specific to the main....
any input on this?
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
Well since Rotella is a Jaso/MA oil it can be used in the primary or in any wet-clutch applications. I actually use it (T &T6) in my primary. I wish I could find Rotella in a SAE 50 & 60 weight locally...I'd be all over it.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,575
Likes: 7
From: Wisconsin
Could you share some of those advanced synthetics with us if you would It's always good to use that list as a refferance. Enthusiasm or not there is an inherent problem with today's synthetic choices in relation to excessive valve train noise. Those who have opted to use a single grade oil mentioned in the manual have found it elevates much if not all of this noise. I have argued for a long time the benefits of synthetic lubricants however, I have been unable to dispute the noise associated with the use of synthetics in today's VTwin motorcycle engines. I prefer to use synthetic instead of conventional lubrication and have been an advocate for synthetic oil before it was endorsed by Harley Davidson, but I have never liked the noisier valve train associated with it's use.
In all seriousness, my comments are based on my past experience with the 20w50 VT oils. I've been in 100 deg. F Atlanta traffic (the bumper to bumper stuff in the construction zones) with my bike and my buddy next to me. My bike with M1 20w50 is hot, but idling fine and no issues. My buddies bike with 50wt dino oil is in the heat management mode, his N light is flashing on and off (hot transmission for sure) and his bike is grouchy as hell. He's turning his bike off to cool it down, pushing it...you know the drill. I believe my oil (the advanced synthetic stuff) was earning its money that day.
At the end of the trip we dumped his used up oils and I convinced him to use M1 20w50 V-Twin.
I understand your concerns with additional engine noise, but does that mean the oil is not doing its job of properly lubricating the engine?