I think, IIRC, the manuals say don't down shift into first above 10mph. I could be wrong. YMMV.

 

A hundred riders will probably have a 100 ideas as to when to upshift or downshift.

Back when I started driving a diesel truck, an experienced old drive told me something that I have always remembered.
He said gears are for pullin' and brakes are for stoppin'!

On a steep downhill grade I'll put my bike in a gear that will hold me near the speed limit and allows me to safely negotiate curves, etc.

When I'm approaching a stop sign or light, I usually pull the clutch in and slowly downshift to a gear comparable to my speed until I reach a very low speed and then into first gear before stopping.

I know some riders who will drop one gear, the let the clutch, then drop another gear and let the clutch out again and again until they come to a complete stop.

There's no best way do do this, it's just how you like to do it as long as it's safe and does no harm to your engine, transmission or clutch.
And yes, brake pads are much cheaper to replace than the above listed items.

 

Engine braking is fine. Match speed to proper gear. Sometimes ending or stopping in second gear. Dropping into first but not releasing clutch at final stop.

 

Well said. I use engine braking automatically, and always shift into 1st before rolling to a stop. You need to be ready to go, and go fast if some lamebrain is closing in on you from the rear.

 

Yup just roll to stop in 2nd and when your at a full stop kick to first

 

I have always down shifted and used engine braking on every bike I have owned. This is my first Harley (1 1/2 years) and I heard years before than a Harley cannot be down shifted. Down shifting from 6th thru 1st is always smooth. I have read this several time on HDF and what is the deal with shifting into 1st. Is the transmission different than other transmissions or is it like coming from first to granny gear too big of a jump.

 

You guys using your engines for braking may want to have your crank run-out checked a little more often than normal since that it the easiest way to scissor your crank out of alignment.

The 4 3/8" stroke cranks they started using in the 96" and up engines have had a lot of issues with crank run-out. Popping of the clutch is a no no IMO when trying to slow down an 800+ pound bike plus rider(s). The crank is not going to stay in alignment without plugging and welding.

 

As long as you "match the gear to speed/RPM" while braking, crank run-out isn't an issue. This is how the motor's designed to function & normal/recommended slow/stop method. It's the riders who pop clutch/drop hammer on take-off + "chirp" tires during slow-down/stopping who might experience run-out issues...if they operate in this manner on a continual basis.

The OP is only having problem w/using 1st @ stop which was addressed/covered by previous posts.

 

What 2AMguy said, agreed!!

 

Engine braking may be fine but it puts a lot more wear and tear on the engine, trans and drive train. I race cars and one of the things my engine builder told me years ago is to not over rev the engine while down shifting, I heel and toe to match the revs and use the braks to slow the car. I know there is a big difference between a HD and a 600hp race engine. I never go into first unless stopped and brakes are much cheaper then using the engine to slow whatever you are driving, just my opinion and the opinion of several engine builders I know.