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So do I, they have a really good anti wear additive package, my engine builder for my race car told me he would run their dino oil over anybodys full syn and the racing oil makes my engine quieter then any other oil i have tried.
Having a stout anti-wear package is all well and good however zddp and boron don't even activate until the oil is up to operating temp. What you want are friction modifiers such as molybdenum disulfide or the more potent tri nuclear moly.
Moly remains on the internal parts after cool down and eliminate start up wear whereas the v-twin oils lack any friction modifiers whatsoever. An automotive 20w-50 does have friction modifiers and in a Harley they are better than the v-twin oils.
V-twin oils were designed for shared sump bikes,not our separate fluid bikes.
Just because a company puts a motorcycle on their bottles of oil doesn't mean it's ideal for all applications.
Having a stout anti-wear package is all well and good however zddp and boron don't even activate until the oil is up to operating temp. What you want are friction modifiers such as molybdenum disulfide or the more potent tri nuclear moly.
Moly remains on the internal parts after cool down and eliminate start up wear whereas the v-twin oils lack any friction modifiers whatsoever. An automotive 20w-50 does have friction modifiers and in a Harley they are better than the v-twin oils.
V-twin oils were designed for shared sump bikes,not our separate fluid bikes.
Just because a company puts a motorcycle on their bottles of oil doesn't mean it's ideal for all applications.
I looked up Moly but couldn't get any info on which oils are using it as a modifier, can you share which oils are including it in their formula?
Here are the properties of Brad Penn motorcycle oil and auto oil, compare to yours, I did and is why I now use Brad Penn in everything I have, even my John Deere tractor.
Plus the majority of engine builders I have asked say it is some of the best stuff out there, in fact I did a test of my own on a cam shaft, I put a little oil on each lobe, each lobe was a different brand of oil, the next morning the lobe with the most oil on it was the Brad Penn, it sticks to metal better then any other oil I have tried, that was enough proof for me.
I have been told that for most people cold start ups is where the most damage is done to their motors and the syn oils have the best protection for that.
I have been told the base stock of Brad Penn oil that comes out of the ground is some of the best in the world, and the properties of it make it stick to metal better then any other oil, so I tried the experiment myself, I found it to be true, thats why I use it, I use the partial syn in the engine.
I have been told that for most people cold start ups is where the most damage is done to their motors and the syn oils have the best protection for that.
You can tell when a motor is dry starting by all the clack'ity clack dry valve train noise, when I fire mine up with the grade 50 theirs none of that. My wife's bike occasionally dry starts (small displacement Metric) and there's no mistaking when that's happening.
You can tell when a motor is dry starting by all the clack'ity clack dry valve train noise, when I fire mine up with the grade 50 theirs none of that. My wife's bike occasionally dry starts (small displacement Metric) and there's no mistaking when that's happening.
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