I've got a 2010 FLHX. I did a stage 2 103 kit with 255 cams and Fatcat exhaust last yr. The bike has ran great since my dealer did the build and dyno tune with the SEPST. The only complaint I've had is the heat off of the engine. It has seemed to me that it runs hotter than other bikes, so I asked my dealer to check my AFR and see if he could richen the mixture if he thought it ok to do so. He richened the mix and said my bike is ready to go. I pick it up and immediately notice its running sluggish and doesn't have the crisp throttle response that it had before they tweaked it. It even sputtered a little at low rpm. I carry it back and describe the problem and they tell me they will put it back as it was. I ride the bike and again it's running better, but not like before. I carry it back again. They tell me that this time they clear out the ECM and completely reset it back to the dyno tuned settings. They tell me everything is as it was except for they've added a little more fuel at deacceleration and low rpm to help the deacceleration popping i had been experiencing. It runs better, but I still notice that it's sluggish at low rpm where before it had great torque and crisp throttle response. Pulling long hills now at 62 mph in the low 2000 rpm range it really struggles, where before no laboring whatsoever. I'm really frustrated. Is the extra fuel they've put in t low rpm causing my problem? Are they lying when they say they've reset it back to original settings? Could they be using the wrong map? I've quizzed them and they say no. They have tuned my bike twice. Once with stage 1 kit added ith new SEPST. The second time after 103 kit with 255 cams added. They say they have the right map. What could be going wrong. Any ideas?

 

Actually going up long hills at low 2000's rpm set at 62 mph it should struggle. But if it didn't before, the only thing I can think of would be the throttle zero position could be off and just needs to be reset.

 

Bring it to another reputable tuner in your area. It will be worth the piece or mind.

 

No struggle at all before. I was saying before they tweaked it, it had great low rpm torque and throttle response. The 255 cams and 2-1 really make a difference at low rpm, but now it's not the same bike.

 

Do you have the stock header and just the new mufflers? Not sure what you mean by fat cat exhaust....is that a complete header/exhaust system? Get rid of the cat if you haven't done so already and that should have eliminated most of your heat issues.
They have obviously changed something that is causing the issues. This is a good reason to do this kind of thing yourself and not have a dealer messing with your bike.

 

The fatcat exhust is a complete system. It's made by D&D. It's a 2-1. It's been on since I did the 103 stage 2 and dyno tune.

 

Before they tweaked it, I was always amazed at how much low end torque I had. Now, it doesn't run like the same bike. Throttle response is not crisp as it was, it's sluggish where before the power was immediate as soon as you twist the throttle, and I'm getting a lot more deacceleration popping. All of these problems are below 2500 rpm's. Above 2500 rpm's no problem.

 

Don't worry, you'll figure it out. It will just be frustrating getting there. Remember that if you can't get satisfaction from your dealer, you can always purchase a Power Vision and go that route. Yea, it will be a few hundred more bux, but then you have control over your tuning and it flashes directly to the ECM just like your current tuner.

But maybe the dealer will eventually get you back to where you were originally....however sounds like if you do get back there you may have to live with the heat. With both exhaust headers terminating on the right side, you should expect more right side heat for sure.

 

They're lying; no way the bike should have fell on it's face by a few little tweaks. I doubt they had your original map saved and over wrote the dyno tuned map with who knows what.

Did you tell them you have 255 cams. Do not take for granted they know. There's a big difference in timing tables from stock to the 255 cams.

And, you do not need to buy a different tuner. Just install another base map yourself or find a different tuner/dealer that will actually listen to you.

Another tip is to take a usb flash type storage drive to the dealer and make them download the map they installed in your bike into it.

 

Carried my bike back to the dealer this morning. The service manager told me he doesn't know what went wrong, but he's gonna do a complete retune on the dyno next week. So, I'm happy at this point.