Finished Wiring

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first pic is fender running light, Second is fender Brake light, third is rear running, and forth is rear brake lights, Hope this helps anyone can feel free to PM me for questions and I will try to help you out.


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Yes sims5 I believe this will work on the Road King also, you'll notice in one of the photo's it references Road King.

 

Hey Badazz,

Which "dual circuit element" should I order? There are several for different amounts of LEDs.

 

If I may answer, I emailed Custom Dynamics regarding the 65-100 LED one ( I figured that would be the one) This was their response...

"The dual circuit element will work for your application, basically you connect the positive of your LEDs to one side of the element, on the other side of the element you have your running and brak.e "

 

Is the tri-bar light section on the bottom of the rear fender of the street glide a seperate piece? I'm curious if it could be put on a rear fender of my Road King Custom. Hmmmmm?

 

Yes the actual led module doesnt come with the facia as Harley calls it. It has to be purchased separate. There are also a few other parts that are needed to make the transition. Here is a previous post from HARLEYPINGMAN on this forum of the needed parts.

Okay, the cost for the FLHX rear fender treatment is $331.52, including shipping AND an FLHX fender. Remove the cost of the fender ($171.41) and the parts cost, including shipping is $160.11.

The body part that is U-shaped and fits on the rear fender is identified as "Ground Effects" at page 113 of the 2006 parts catalog for Touring bikes. This is a painted part; mine came in **** since the VIN-number, required for the dealer to order the part, identified the genuine FLHX bike as being ***** in color.

So, unless you have a bike matching an existing FLHX color, you will probably have to order some paint; I ordered a quart of Birch White plus the 8 oz of Activator, so that added another $100 to the cost.

All of these part numbers are from the 2006 Parts book for touring models, pages 112 and 113. The prices are what I paid using a highly regarded HD dealer widely acclaimed for their good prices and excellent service on this and other HD forums. I will not mention them by name:

Ground Effects, price $63.64 part no. 59739-06(followed by a color code: BXT (cobalt blue), BPY (black pearl), BPS (black cherry) and DH (vivid black);
Rear Fender Light Assembly, 69375-06, price $49.34;
Conduit, wire harness, price $6.47
Pin Housing, 3-way, price $.82, part no. 73103-96BK;
Pin Terminal, part no. 73190-96, price $.31;
Stud Plate, part no. 59818-06, price each $5.95 (requires 2);
Ground Effects Support, part no. 59790-06, price $5.40;
Bumper, part no. 59581-05, price $2.73;
Screw, part 3596, price $.72 (2)
Flange nut, part 7499, price $1.16 (4);
Grommet, part no. 59778-06, did not get a price since these fill the holes at the top of the filler strip (the left hole is where the antenna pokes through on the stock FLHX, and the right side hole is filled with the rubber plug. I am mounting a detachable Ultra Tour pack and these holes will accommodate the docking hardware required.

If your Touring bike has a rubber bumper, you will need to order "Bracket," part no. 91140-04, as this part is what connects the saddlebag support brackets to the fender. If you look at a Road Glide, RK Custom or FLHX you will see this bracket and how it takes the place of the bumper bracket on the other EGs and RKs.

If you want to lose the pancake turn signals or, if you already have the bullet turn signals and want to duplicate the FLHX's license plate mounted below the brakelight, order Bullet Rear Turn Signal and License Plate Relocation Kit, page 504 of the 06 P&A catalog, part no. 53702-04, price $195 from the same dealer that sold the above parts.

I recommend that you go to your dealers parts department and photocopy pages 112-113 so you will have a picture of what you are trying to do and the part numbers. Then you can shop the internet HD dealers for the best parts prices.

If I have omitted anything I am sure I will hear about it next week when the new fender and all of this stuff is added.

I am not a HD tech or in any way affiliated with the motorcycle or auto business. All I did was get the pages from the parts catalog and try to order what I needed. If I gave an incorrect part number above, or omitted something so be it. So, to avoid relying on me, do your own research, get pages 112 and 113 and have at it. I certainly do not guarantee the accuracy of anything presented here.


For those considering this modification, I forgot to mention that I had to purchase a different saddlebag support. My bike had the wrap around chrome guard rails ala the EG Classic and Ultra. You can choose to go with the EG Standard, which give you a crash bar in front of the bags, a "comfort" crash bar (see

 

To be honest I am not sure, I have emailed Larry to see which one he used and am awaiting an email back. MMCNH said that the Custom Dyanamics site said the 65-100 LED would work. I know that Larry was working with the site to figure it out and that he had contacted them on this. So probably this is what you need but I will post the reply from Larry after I find out.

 

ok so i was thinking about this led as a brake light planand started disassemblng in the process...haha...... i have basically came up with a pretty simple solution tothis idea thisevening........after poking around at the fender/stock brake light/and led for a little bit with a meter i came up with this simple idea.leave the led running light wiring alone, remove the brakelight find the brake light 12+ wire in the main plug inside the brakelight housing i believe it is second one over from the ground wire. run a second hot wire from the brakeight 12+down to be installed into the stock led housing. now remove the entire tri bar set up from the rear fender, (here is where my personal "light bulb" went off over my head) as i looked at it i noticed that it is not three led bars at all, it is a lens that is over a "bucket" so to speak.....the leds inside are 5 mini leds on a green board, they use up no space inside the housing whats so ever! there is room for days in there! so this is what i did temporarily to see if my idea would cut it,iused the 12+ wire from my current brake light andwired up a led turn signal that i hadfrom my rice rocket and i put itinside the housing,put the lens back over it turned the key on....running light.....pulled the brake and boom! "daytime"!! shining out of that thing! granted it was the wrong color since it was a turn signal laying inside there but it made me realize thatmyoverly simple idea would work and it made mewant to go to the electronics store and buy some led accent lightsright now to put inside if there, because it works like a champ! and it was so simple! so tommorow hopefully i am gonna be able to get by elec. shop, or hell even pepboys (those stupid rice burner interior "accent " lights would probably do the trick) get some leds, attach them inside the tri-bar glue the lens cover back on and put her back together! then i need to work on mounting the curved license plate over the stock brake light hole ( covers it just right! ) but thats another project. if i get it finished up i will try and post a little video showing the difference (not sure if i wil be able to get it done tommorow, wifeys got her baby shower tommorow) but i will give it a shot

to sum it all up add more lights insdie the tri-bar housing and wire them right to you brake light hot lead, there is lots of room inside the housing, and you dont have to worry about voltages or tricky wiring ( a big plus for me! ) haha. honestly lts like turning your tri-bar into a dual filament bulb.........easy as pie

 

That should work jj9150. The way that I have came about because people were looking for a way to do it without splitting that sealed "bucket". Some were worried about the MoCo warranty, others worried about water in the light and at the tune of 50 or 60 bucks people were not wanting to risk water intrusion causeing any other lighting problems. After you have your idea completed please feel free to post the process as I see you have done mostly already just throw some pics in with it. I think electrical tinkering is fun, but I also have a bit of electrical background too. My hobby for sometime was repair T.V.'s. Congrats on your findings.