I took the derby cover off the chaincase to adjust the clutch. I cannot get that jam nut around the clutch adjuster rod loose. It's like it's welded on!

I stopped trying for fear I may damage something and thought I'd ask here for advice.

Anybody else ever have this problem?

Does turning it counterclockwise loosen it?

Is there something else I'm not doing first?


-cjf

 

Try this: Wheel down, bike in gear, have an assistant apply the rear brake very firmly, wrench or socket on the nut, quick whack with the appropriate floggin' tool (hammer) and it's done. Many use an impact at this point, but not required.
Lefty loosey, righty tighty...

 

Does it slip now or have problems engaging or disengaging? Then I'd suggest leaving it alone. I've seen a lot of people here that have issues adjusting clutchs and there was probably nothing wrong with them. Other than adjusting the clutch cable, my clutch has been adjusted twice. Once at 2,000 miles by the dyno guy and again at 70,000 miles because the transmission seal failed and it had to be taken apart. 90,000 miles now. Clutch works great.

Having said that, try the search function. There are postings here or on you tube with how to video's on clutch adjustment.

Good luck.

 

The guy from Alabama is right. Somebody along the way used an impact tool to tighten. Don't worry about the rod. Once the nuts loose you'll be able to properly adjust.
If you still have the original screws on your derby cover you may want to look at some chrome countersunk or other hardware and never seize.

 

I'd use my hand impact. It's a small device designed to be struck by a hammer and turns slightly to the direction of the threads. It's small and hand held to prevent a large continuous burst like an electric impact or compressor powered units.

The nut on the adjuster is lefty loosey, righty tighty. BUT, behind the adjuster is the clutch assembly's hub nut which is reverse threaded to prevent loosening. That's the nut that would allow the clutch assembly (basket) to be removed when tearing down the entire primary ... not to be confused with just adjusting it.

Don't forget to loosen the cable before adjusting the rod with the align head bolt, inside the lock nut of the adjuster. Most are set by making slight contact, as you tighten it, then back it off. Generally it's a 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

This is very important to allow the throw-out bearing to be released completely when you release the clutch lever. You then adjust the cable slack to leave about an 1/8" slack at the lever.

Hope it comes loose for you.