Dielectric grease yes/no maybe
However, given the type and caliber of experience represented by the "I've used it for years" camp, I decided it was time to look for some more recent official recommendations.
A couple of google finds:
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/09980.pdf
(Permatex usage guide)
For battery terminals: "Clean, coat both parts, reassemble"
http://www.dielectricgrease.org/
(can you believe it? Dielectric Grease has its own website!)
"Even though this type of grease is nonconductive, I have never found, not once in 33 plus years of personally using it, any problem as far as conductivity goes. "
There are several more... I'm convinced.
Learn somethin' new every day!
a couple of things-
DEG is non conductive. It is an insulator, so should a thin film get between connecting pins- is insulates the connection.
This can be a problem with milli-volt ECM sensor input errors.
DEG can TRAP moisture in a connector especially is areas that experience heat/cold cycles. Condensation can form, and not be able to evaporate out. This moisture can cause corrosion in the connection, or misfires in high voltage systems*
DEG - or any oily substance ( WD40) can trap and hold dirt. A dirt film can hold moisture....the problem re-occurs and gets worse
WD40 has many uses- an electrical cleaner is not one of them
DEG is best in an application where a rubber boot is used to make a connection...signal lights, headlight boot, sparkplugs wire boots- this keeps the rubber pliable and from bonding.
DEG can be too much of a good thing.
MOST electronic faults are poor connections- often the fix is in the connecting of a new part, rather than the new part itself- the old part is blamed and tossed when it was a bad connection to blame.
Most shops don't care, they charge you for the new part, and charge you for the labor to "fix" your problem.
A good connector cleaning strategy is to keep it clean, keep it dry.
Physically cleaning pins is good- sandpaper is too coarse, a rubber eraser may leave a film ( the "softeners" added to the compound).
I use a nic sand fiberglass pen- Radio Shack sells similar.
Contact cleaners are great but READ the label- some eat plastic- or may discolor paints. ( over spray).
I like DeOxit/ Cramolin R5- and I usually spray a little onto a q-tip and get it where I need it.
If I have to spray, most cans have low med high flow settings, and be careful where the excess goes- wrap a rag around to catch it.
and don't power wash the darn electronics.
Mike
( Guiding Electrons Professionally for over 35 years)
* remember how many cars wouldn't start in the rain/ damp ? this was usually due to moisture inside the distributor cap...Chevys avoided this problem because GM's had a door in the distributor to adjust the dwell- moisture could evaporate rather than be trapped. The fix on other models was to drill holes in the cap, rather than wipe it out with a paper towel each time
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