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I am wanting to put V/H power duels Headers and mufflers on my new bike 2013 Ultra Limited and local dealer says I should do a air filter and tuner as well but said I should put a PCV over the Harley tuner on and said be around $2000 for parts labor and dyno but all I wanna do is pipes and use my o2 sensors so do I really need air filter, tuner and dyno??
If all you do is the pipes you don't need anything else. Your ECU will adapt. The problem is that once you start, you tend to keep changing things. Try the pipes first, & if that satisfies you, you're done. If you want more later you can add it later.
When you decide you want an air cleaner, a different cam, etc. then you need a tuner. If you want maximum power from your build you'll need a good tuner & someone that can do a good job on a dyno. If you want just good power & rideability then consider one of the auto tune devices. The bike will run good & you won't have the expense of the dyno.
I did the Air cleaner, head pipe, exhaust upgrade, and got the PCV with auto tune. I shopped around and got the best dealers on each item. Loading the maps onto the PCV isn't hard. If you change something most likely you will have to change the map any way, so why not do it all your self.
I did the Air cleaner, head pipe, exhaust upgrade, and got the PCV with auto tune. I shopped around and got the best dealers on each item. Loading the maps onto the PCV isn't hard. If you change something most likely you will have to change the map any way, so why not do it all your self.
Yeah I can upload and download maps, Just need someone to write the map, But with auto tune should write its own map once you have a base one correct?? And how is the auto tune, reliable?
Yeah I can upload and download maps, Just need someone to write the map, But with auto tune should write its own map once you have a base one correct?? And how is the auto tune, reliable?
I have a Thundermax with Auto Tune. You select a base map from a selection that is close enough to prevent any motor problems. Once the unit finds & sets the idle it begins making adjustments. I could feel mine adjusting for the first few miles. The auto tune will make what adjustments it can, then you read them when you get back. You write them to the base map, & that becomes your new map. Auto tune will adjust 5% or 10% at a time. Mine took three read/write sessions before it began to tell me it was nearing the point where further adjustments would be to minor to matter. At that point it will continue to adjust within the 5 - 10% as you ride & when conditions change. You can read the changes & decide for yourself if it's worth writing to the base map. Mine has my bike running strong & smooth. The best it's run since I've had the bike.
Be sure if you go with the AT option to mention the model year to the dealer you buy the tuner from because newer model bikes have the smaller wideband sensors - and your stock head pipe bungholes may not fit the new AT sensors. Get with FM and ask Jamie - he wil help you out.
Be sure if you go with the AT option to mention the model year to the dealer you buy the tuner from because newer model bikes have the smaller wideband sensors - and your stock head pipe bungholes may not fit the new AT sensors. Get with FM and ask Jamie - he wil help you out.
The smaller 12mm HD sensors are not widebands. In fact, WB's are only available in 18mm.
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