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tc 88 engine noise

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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 10:01 PM
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Default tc 88 engine noise

I have an 06 ultra that broke down last week and today i rescued it from the dealer. When it died it felt like it was a fuel/ignition problem and running on one cylinder. I got it today and it would start but the tech said when it warmed up it would die and under a load ie loading on a trailer the engin sounded like a loud rattle or knock in the front jead. They said compression in front cylinder was also low. Tech said bent valve or broken valve spring? Any thoughts?

I know the repair is going to include a 95" kit and cam kit, but should I check the bottom end? I bought it used two months ago and am already pissed it craped out 800 miles after purchase. I know none of the history other than 40k on the odo and its a ultra with ultra sidecar and will stay that way since they are destined to be collectable and I need a third wheel. I intend to keep the bike a long time too. I am lucky to have a top notch builder/tuner local so is a pro built 98" with cams and heads better than a factory HD 95" reman with cams?

the builder uses a fuelmoto kit, fuel moto head work, and woods cams, I guess he used to work for woods or so the forum said. Seems like all the kits (HQ, AMS, Zippers) are comprable and its the install and tune that make the magic. Now I just need a few grand
 
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Old Sep 21, 2012 | 10:58 PM
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easy enough to buy a cheap set of take off heads, and put em on, and ride it.
I don't know why you wouldn't do that?
Check the cam chain tensioners.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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Cut the oil filter apart to see what's in there ie metal fragments. Also clean the drain pan really well. Then drain oil, check for debris in oil
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by NAILIT RK
Cut the oil filter apart to see what's in there ie metal fragments. Also clean the drain pan really well. Then drain oil, check for debris in oil
Well it took a few months to save up the cash but there was metal in the bottom end so it is getting the bonus plan rebuild. Timken upgrade, balanced crank, new cam drive, and with the cases split going to 103 with fuel moto parts and headwork. Expensive but done right.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Foodog2
Well it took a few months to save up the cash but there was metal in the bottom end so it is getting the bonus plan rebuild. Timken upgrade, balanced crank, new cam drive, and with the cases split going to 103 with fuel moto parts and headwork. Expensive but done right.
THAT outta get you down the road. What cams are you going with?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mikelikesbikes
THAT outta get you down the road. What cams are you going with?
Not sure, but Ibthink he primarily uses Woods Werformance since he used to work with them tuning before he opened his own engine shop. I asked for a 50 to 80 mph sweet spot since its a sidecar rig.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Hello there
A hand build has got to be better than mass-production every time and your builder has to make a living so it is good for both of you. If you have got the cash then you are going to have fun. I am sure your man will look after you and give you good advice.
JMO but if you can run to a after market crank true plug and weld then you would have it from the bottom up and if not then get the original shored up.
You could just take the head off to see if you could get away with a cheap repair but if you are like me you would want it bottomed out to see there you stand. My dream build would be nice sorted stroked crank sitting in Timmken bearing conversion, extreme big bore with case bore to match heads cams Like the look of them s&s easy start items aftermarket cam plate and bearings with uprated oilpump etc. Think i better go because i have spent all your money lol.
good luck.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tbone108
Hello there
A hand build has got to be better than mass-production every time and your builder has to make a living so it is good for both of you. If you have got the cash then you are going to have fun. I am sure your man will look after you and give you good advice.
JMO but if you can run to a after market crank true plug and weld then you would have it from the bottom up and if not then get the original shored up.
You could just take the head off to see if you could get away with a cheap repair but if you are like me you would want it bottomed out to see there you stand. My dream build would be nice sorted stroked crank sitting in Timmken bearing conversion, extreme big bore with case bore to match heads cams Like the look of them s&s easy start items aftermarket cam plate and bearings with uprated oilpump etc. Think i better go because i have spent all your money lol.
good luck.
Once i saw the metal in the oil i figured bottom up. Heck its only money. He does all his own crank work in-house welded plugged... i asked abput boring the cases to go big and he said if my main concern was reliability stay under 107.
 
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 01:30 PM
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Hello there
Your builder knows best because he is doing it all the time. I have a spare set of engine cases and was thinking of etreme big bore and timken but when it comes to it i may well take advice. Its ok me talking about it but when the chips are down the man with the spanners will give us a reallity check.
good luck and keep us posted.
tbone.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2013 | 07:48 PM
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Becasue I am the luckiest man alive my cases were damaged by the cam gear. So, I get to get a new set of cases from the MOCO so I keep my matching numbers. Now I will really have a new motor Oh yeah and my dealership that sold me a bike that lasted a few weeks sucks.
 
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