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Starter problem still exists, more questions

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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 06:59 AM
  #11  
Rodzilla6's Avatar
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Not saying this is your problem, but my start/stop switch recently started acting bizarre and randomly trying to start my bike while I was riding down the road...bizarre. Good thing, new switches only 60 bucks.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 06:53 PM
  #12  
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the bang is THE ISSUIE,how many times can a starter clutch get hit by a bottoming out comp,b4 it goes bad?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by bigdumbnoitall00
the bang is THE ISSUIE,how many times can a starter clutch get hit by a bottoming out comp,b4 it goes bad?
Ive said it many times. The stock comp eats up starter clutches and IPB's.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by themensh
I replaced my battery about a month ago....hoping that would solve my 'starter grinding'. It would still grind, more so after riding it a half hour or more. I was embarrassed to start it after stopping for fuel....Took it in day before yesterday for new back tire. told the service writer I thought the starter clutch was shitting to bed. Picked up my bike the yesterday. He said that the starter clutch was bad, but it was less expensive to replace the stater than tearing it apart and rebuilding it. Since it was under extended warranty, it was cheaper to replace the whole thing...1hr labor + Starter Vs. multiple hours +parts rebuilding.
Starts up and purrs like a kitten now.
Starter for my '09 # is 31618-06A $375.99...plus an o-ring # 27444-00Y $7.99

Chuck (can't-wait-to-see-what-goes-wrong-next)
Glad you got this annoyance fixed. This is the part I was referring to in my earlier post. It is not really a "clutch" but rather a pawl inside the starter gear at the end of the starter shaft. Consists of needle bearings riding on an eccentric shaft that allows the starter to crank and then free spin when the engine catches. The eccentric shaft and needles wear causing that grinding noise because the needles are slipping on the shaft. The part is ~ $180 and very easy to change when your warranty is up.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by kbootch
Glad you got this annoyance fixed. This is the part I was referring to in my earlier post. It is not really a "clutch" but rather a pawl inside the starter gear at the end of the starter shaft. Consists of needle bearings riding on an eccentric shaft that allows the starter to crank and then free spin when the engine catches. The eccentric shaft and needles wear causing that grinding noise because the needles are slipping on the shaft. The part is ~ $180 and very easy to change when your warranty is up.
While your on the right track it is commonly called a sprag or over run clutch and the shaft is not eccentric but the rollers in the clutch are. They are called sprags.

http://www.gmnbt.com/freewheel_technology.htm


HD uses a trap door style that has half as many sprags and tend to fail. All ***** and MEH use a full sprag style like in the first video.

 

Last edited by soft 02; Sep 23, 2012 at 08:16 PM.
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 08:14 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by soft 02
While your on the right track it is commonly called a sprag or over run clutch and the shaft is not eccentric but the rollers in the clutch are. They are called sprags.

http://www.gmnbt.com/freewheel_technology.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fsp3f...eature=related
Thanks, I have been calling this a pawl - you would think I would know better after changing it 3 times now!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2012 | 08:18 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by kbootch
Thanks, I have been calling this a pawl - you would think I would know better after changing it 3 times now!
3rd time I changed mine I switched to the MEH lifetime warranty and havnt looked back.
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 09:06 PM
  #18  
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I have a 2010 street glide that the start was grinding and would turn over awhile before it would start or bang but not every time. Had se compensator in this winter now it is still acting up. Seemed to be better when I start before fuel pump stops. Tonight I tried three time to get it started and it back fired and did not start good. Is this the starter doing this? If so what is best replacement?
 
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 10:52 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cnnesseth
I have a 2010 street glide that the start was grinding and would turn over awhile before it would start or bang but not every time. Had se compensator in this winter now it is still acting up. Seemed to be better when I start before fuel pump stops. Tonight I tried three time to get it started and it back fired and did not start good. Is this the starter doing this? If so what is best replacement?
The Allballs starter drive cured my grinding, later I had the hesitation and backfire during attempted starts and a new battery took care of that. You have 2 problems, the grind-most likely the starter drive which has been beaten to death by the weak compensator bottoming out and a 3 year old battery getting too tired for "clean" starts. The new compensator, by itself, won't "rejuvenate" a starter drive which has been beaten to death by the old compensator.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2014 | 09:20 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by mikebaby
So, I'm still having the grinding noise when trying to start my bike sometimes. Today I drained and pulled my outer primary cover off to inspect. There was some metal on my magnetic drain plug, and what I believe to be the Pinion gear has alot of abnormal wear. I think what I am hearing is the pinion gear is trying to spin when not fully engaged. Is this something that a bad solenoid would cause, or could there be some other reason for the pinion gear to not properly engage.

Anyone have a P/N for a factory starter? All I can find online are aftermarket or the High Torque version and it's pricey.

Speaking of aftermarket starters, are any of them worth a ****, or should I stick with H-D OEM?

Thanks,
mikebaby
So what happened to the situation mikebaby?
Did you get your bike fixed?
I see you have it for sale now?

Old thread but still a valid situation for many of us.
 
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