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Cams as described above. Adjustable pushrods make the install less labor intensive. The gear driven Andrews 21G cams I had installed provided the most substantial performance improvement when compared to previous upgrades (Headers, mufflers, Screamin' Eagle A/C, Stage 1 Flash).
If I had the opportunity to do it all over again, I'd do the cams first with a stage 1 upgrade.
I'd agree on cams first. I am all set for a big bore upgrade this Winter now that I have done the cams and adjustable pushrods last Winter. This past year I have been very pleased with the cam upgrade. Others are right though about the big bore upgrade, but that can always come down the road.
Thanks for all the suggestions, my bike has a carb and is already at stage one, if I go with cams I will have the bearings replaced with the cams but what else should be done? I put a oil pump spring kit in for better oil pressure, it helped a lot in reducing noise in the top end when hot, the tensioners were just replaced this June but are the old spring style but should be good for around 30k miles, so cams, bearings, adjustable pushrods and what else????? Thanks
You could go with a new cam plate and lifters, too. I would do lifters since you are in there if they are the original. Fueling makes a good set for $150. In my setup, I wish I had spent the extra money on a Fueling plate, lifters and pump. The pump and plate would have allowed better oil flow. Instead, I added a baisley spring and resused the plate and lifters as they had very little wear at 35K miles. New gaskets is about all else I can think of.
save up a little longer, or break out the credit card and do them both at the same time.you will be down just one time get everything matched to each other, and only one time tuning it. I think this is a carbed bike, right?, still should be run on a dyno, but still will only have to do jetting one time, if you're not doing your own work, you will pay twice. best to do them both at same time, I do know that money does not always allow for that though, good luck to you. in the end you will save some money overall
Yes money is a factor, 3 kids, house and more, I will replace cams, bearings, pushrods, lifters and probably oil pump, I also put a spring kit in my oil pump bypass and have much better oil pressure with less engine noise from the top end, but with over 40k miles on it will just put a new oil pump in as well.
Yes money is a factor, 3 kids, house and more, I will replace cams, bearings, pushrods, lifters and probably oil pump, I also put a spring kit in my oil pump bypass and have much better oil pressure with less engine noise from the top end, but with over 40k miles on it will just put a new oil pump in as well.
This may be something worth looking at. With this kit, all you need to do is find a cam if you are staying with your new chain tensioner upgrade and some pushrods.
Frank - I am in the same boat as you right now...I know what you mean about wanting more grunt when fully loaded with a certain "purchase" you made from me! HA
I am looking to just do cams for the time being, also because of other family expenses, and be done/happy for the time being. I talked with the guys who built my monster Sporty engine and they all said doing simple cam work will really light up the TC88.
I know a good Indy that I use that lives in Midland, VA not too far from you. He is a big ****** when it comes to this stuff and will answer all your questions. I'm planning on having him do my cams, cam plate, oil pump, etc this winter. PM me if you want his phone number.
Thanks guys, it is difficult to decide but I think I will go with cams first, the bike runs good now and I plan on keeping it, I will put as much as I can into the cam chest now then the bore kit later, will pretty much have a new engine except the bottom end, the 99 to 03's had forged bottom ends so it should last a very long time, I just like cruising, not hot rodding, much anyway lol.
I see I am about the only one saying Big Bore first so thought I would share my logic. The bike has 40k mi on it and the cam chest was just serviced with new tensioners so it is good for another 30 or 40 k mi. The goal is to add torque and horsepower. You can do both the big bore or the cams for something less than $500 without labor. However, just putting cams in the 1450 will only net 81 ftlbs of TQ and 72 HP on paper while the Big Bore will net 89 ftlbs of TQ and 75 HP on paper
Cams are must with or without big bore kit to get the most out of your motor, if economically possible do both at the same time and you will be surprised from the performance if not cams will serve you better and cheaper for time being.
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