Replaced IPB
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Scotland
Replaced IPB
It turned into an epic adventure, I made a locking bar and bought a race remover, installer for $100 off eBay, I fitted and OEM bearing and race and expect it to survive now I have a Hayden M6 tensioner in there, the old race was very badly worn and there was damage to the rollers on the bearing. There is a hell of a lot to remove to get in there and basically everything that came off would have to come off just to change the belt, what were they thinking? The $100 tool worked flawlessly and the seller was great to deal with, see here.
My stock compensator still looked good and the primary chain is in good condition. Most difficult part of the job for me was getting the right sized sockets to drive the old bearing out and the new one in, with it being a roller bearing you cannot freeze it in like you can with a one piece.
The new race looks to be made from a different material, original looked like some grade of stainless, new one looks like carbon steel, you need 5 new bolts for the inner primary mounting as the originals are single use with deformable shoulders. If you have all the tools it is doable in a day, I did it all on the jiffy stand but it would be way easier on a lift. I borrowed a torque wrench from Autozone for the comp bolt as my torque wrenches do not go that high.
Not a job for the faint of heart but following the service manual it all went fairly smoothly.
My stock compensator still looked good and the primary chain is in good condition. Most difficult part of the job for me was getting the right sized sockets to drive the old bearing out and the new one in, with it being a roller bearing you cannot freeze it in like you can with a one piece.
The new race looks to be made from a different material, original looked like some grade of stainless, new one looks like carbon steel, you need 5 new bolts for the inner primary mounting as the originals are single use with deformable shoulders. If you have all the tools it is doable in a day, I did it all on the jiffy stand but it would be way easier on a lift. I borrowed a torque wrench from Autozone for the comp bolt as my torque wrenches do not go that high.
Not a job for the faint of heart but following the service manual it all went fairly smoothly.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Back together and running right?
There's a bearing upgrade for the two piece bearing and race, a single bearing with no race to remove or refit onto the shaft. Most just cut and split the old race to remove.
And the bearing needs to be seated into place using a tool that draws the bearing into it's place evenly, not tapped in which wobbles the bearing back and forth expanding it's mounting location and damaging the bearing before even using it.
If using the race a dab of loctite red can keep it from walking inward on the shaft causing a leak and further damage.
Hope you replaced every single seal back there while doing this project. Even some of the tranny seals are accessible and replacing them could remedy another tear down too soon.
Perhaps you knew all this before you started, and finished?
There's a bearing upgrade for the two piece bearing and race, a single bearing with no race to remove or refit onto the shaft. Most just cut and split the old race to remove.
And the bearing needs to be seated into place using a tool that draws the bearing into it's place evenly, not tapped in which wobbles the bearing back and forth expanding it's mounting location and damaging the bearing before even using it.
If using the race a dab of loctite red can keep it from walking inward on the shaft causing a leak and further damage.
Hope you replaced every single seal back there while doing this project. Even some of the tranny seals are accessible and replacing them could remedy another tear down too soon.
Perhaps you knew all this before you started, and finished?
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: Scotland
I replaced every seal I came to, it is not worth reusing any when it takes that much to get to them, while I would have preferred to use a press to seat the bearing, it was not available so I did it the old fashioned way of very slowly tapping it home, ensuring it was perfectly flush with the seat, if you are gentle they will go in straight, if yo hammer the hell out of it then they will wobble in, I lubed the bearing and seat with engine oil and it drifted nicely home, even with a press you can screw up installation into a blind hole if you do it wrong, it is not the first time I have replaced this type of bearing, although this is the furthest I have been into a Harley motor. The race was tight on the shaft, I have no worries on that, I considered a one piece but really wanted to see if the OEM would last now I had a proper tensioner instead of the junk tightener that was on there. I did not do the tranny seal as I was working on the jiffy stand and did not pull the belt pulley. All is quiet on the western front now with no leaks and even the gear change feels better.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Skipper,
I put mine back in the same way. I learned that 40 years ago. We didn't have any presses out in the barn.
Glad to hear you really know what your doing to get the job done right.
Another thing I could have added was the concern about the spline on the tranny input shaft needs a little masking tape so it doesn't cut the new seal by accident. Being careful is good but that little trick has saved me from past errors.
Turning / testing the transmission when it's all disassembled, to sense if you can feel anything, or hear anything wrong is the only other advise I'd have.
I know what you mean when you button it up and hope all is well. Glad to hear it's back up and running for you.
I put mine back in the same way. I learned that 40 years ago. We didn't have any presses out in the barn.
Glad to hear you really know what your doing to get the job done right.
Another thing I could have added was the concern about the spline on the tranny input shaft needs a little masking tape so it doesn't cut the new seal by accident. Being careful is good but that little trick has saved me from past errors.
Turning / testing the transmission when it's all disassembled, to sense if you can feel anything, or hear anything wrong is the only other advise I'd have.
I know what you mean when you button it up and hope all is well. Glad to hear it's back up and running for you.
Last edited by JohnnyC; Oct 11, 2012 at 12:17 PM.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Scotland
Johnny, yes I taped the splines to protect the seal and turned everything by hand while I was stripping it and when I put it together, when I was reassembling everything I could tell right away that it was significantly different, turning the shaft by hand with the old bearing in there felt horrible compared to the silky smoothness of when the new bearing was installed. Sounds like a new bike now.
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: Scotland
I will try to post some pictures later, it is a full day job with the right tools and taking your time, I would say with a lift and a deadline it would take me 4-5 hours.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Scotland
This how I started, draining the oil from the primary.
Removed the footplate and gear pedal.
Off comes the cover, you can see the tensioner, on jap bikes that chain would live in the bottom of the motor, usually in the middle of the crankshaft.
Tensioner off, I made a locking bar to lock the clutch and compensator so I could unbolt them.
Here they are off, compensator on the left, all that was in great condition.
Here you can see some case scoring from the bad bearing, the bearing is on the shaft on the right.
Inner case off.
Removing the race with a special tool made for this job.
I was too oily to take any more pictures but I drove the old bearing out, fitted a new one with oil seal, new race and reassembled everything, it all sounds good again now and gear shifts are even smoother, bike really feels like a new machine now.
