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In addition to the prior suggestions, if you use oxygenated gas try to get non-oxy in her the last couple tanks to make sure there is no corn in the tank over winter.....
Minnesota winter guy here. Save the bucks. Here is what I have done for years and it works fine.
I have put a rubber mat below the bike to keep any moisture or condensation from the concrete off the bike. I bought mine at a farm store and is a horse mat.
Change the oil.
Put in stabilizer and run a while to make sure it is in the entire FI or carb system.
Attach the battery tender
Cover with cotton cover. Sheets work fine. I have the HD cover. Do not use a water tight cover. It needs to breath.
You should be good to go!
One mistake many make is you never want to start the bike and let it run for a few minutes during the winter. This just causes condensation in your exhuast and motor which can cause rust. Wait until you can ride it, and get it up to full operating temp before you start it.
Pray for a short winter!
This is exactly what I do. This year I'm going to "fog" the cylinders but I'm not sure this is necessary. Just an extra precaution.
This is what I do;
*Top off fuel tank, add stabilizer to the fuel. Run for few minutes to get the stabilizer in the fuel system.
*Change oil and filter.
*Install rags in the ends of the exhaust to prevent mice or anything from crawling in.
*Check tire pressure.
*Make sure the kick stand isn't resting directly on the concrete. Prefer a piece of wood or rubber under it.
*Park the bike with both tires on a rubber mat.
*Install trickle charger.
*Install cover.
This is what I do;
*Top off fuel tank, add stabilizer to the fuel. Run for few minutes to get the stabilizer in the fuel system.
*Change oil and filter. *Install rags in the ends of the exhaust to prevent mice or anything from crawling in.
*Check tire pressure.
*Make sure the kick stand isn't resting directly on the concrete. Prefer a piece of wood or rubber under it.
*Park the bike with both tires on a rubber mat.
*Install trickle charger.
*Install cover.
Pretty much sums it up!
Reminded me of a funny time years ago, pulled my shovelhead with 2" drags out in the spring and fired her up. She sounded a bit strange, I let her warm up a bit, then cracked the throttle hard. The rear exhaust pipe spit out a bunch of straw, shredded rags and a bunch of dead little pink mice all over my driveway. Even with that, I still don't ever plug my pipes, but probably not a bad idea. I did have them little bastards eat a hole in the bottom side of my seat one winter and make a cozy foam nest on top of my battery. I never did see a mouse, but always wondered if they were in there on that first spring ride, yelling "yippee" when the torque slid them off the battery and on to the road.
Heres the best plan I can come up with for winter.
1. Load bike in trailer.
2. Drive to Florida with bike and trailer, better yet ride bike to Florida.
3.Ride bike while in Florida, at least daily.
4.Load bike on trailer in May.
5.Drive home, better yet ride bike home!
I know, nobody likes smarta**.
+1 on the Battery Tender, and you should put the fuel stabilizer of your choice in before you park it. I use either Stabil or Startron for marine use to help with moisture absorption when using fuel where methanol is added for Octane (R+M) method
I don’t have this problem in Vegas; obviously we can pretty much ride year round out here. Just thinking about it… I never really hear anyone suggesting cranking the bike up on occasion, while the bike’s in its storage mode. Why wouldn’t you want to go out and simply open up the garage door and crank the bike up and let it run for a while? Wouldn’t it be better for the bike overall? I have read in the manual that if you don’t take trips longer than say at least 20 miles or more that condensation can build up in the engine and you should change the oil more frequently, however that shouldn’t really come into play as far as winter storage goes. But considering the condensation issue, wouldn’t you want to change the oil after the winter storage, just in case? Just curious what the thought pattern is here…
BTW, I do have a trickle charger and do use it if we run into a long crapy weather period, which isn't too often.
I dont have this problem in Vegas; obviously we can pretty much ride year round out here. Just thinking about it I never really hear anyone suggesting cranking the bike up on occasion, while the bikes in its storage mode. Why wouldnt you want to go out and simply open up the garage door and crank the bike up and let it run for a while? Wouldnt it be better for the bike overall? I have read in the manual that if you dont take trips longer than say at least 20 miles or more that condensation can build up in the engine and you should change the oil more frequently, however that shouldnt really come into play as far as winter storage goes. But considering the condensation issue, wouldnt you want to change the oil after the winter storage, just in case? Just curious what the thought pattern is here
BTW, I do have a trickle charger and do use it if we run into a long crapy weather period, which isn't too often.
Really no reason to start the bike up. We don't do it with our boats either. Just put them in storage and leave them.The idea behind changing the oil prior to winter is to have clean oil in the bike over the storage period. Plus one less thing to do in the Spring. Trickle charger will save the battery, nothing harder on a battery than the cold and no charging on it for 6 months.
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