'07 RK Keeps Blowing Headlight Fuse.
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 273
Likes: 7
From: East TN
'07 RK Keeps Blowing Headlight Fuse.
All right here is where I am at. Installed a cruise control kit on it and during that time i wanted to get rid of the driving lights that are mounted on the crash bars. I know some people like them but I dont think they go with what I want to do with the bike.
The previous owner had left all of the wiring in a birds nest up under seat and in front of the battery so I start finding the mess and making sure I don't pull anything vital. Now there was only one wire that went up to the headlight and they tied it into the yellow wire coming off the plug to the headlight. Which I am guessing the yellow wire is for the high beam and it will kill the driving lights when headlight is on high. I cut that to remove their splice and then I crimped a butt splice and shrink taped it.
I get everything back together and no headlight. Everything else works turn signals, horn the cruise control symbol lights up on the dash. so I look in the nacelle and do not see anything that stands out. I get my meter and check for voltage and I get nothing so I check the fuses and yep blown fuse. I go and get some more fuses and pop one in there and it immediately pops but I had my meter in the plug and I thought well maybe going from white to black was not the proper way to check voltage on the plug so pull my meter and put another fuse in there and turn the key on and the headlight comes on. So i cycle the ignition switch a couple of times and think great that was easy.
Not so fast I put everything back together and am about to go and road test my new cruise control and fire it up and notice my headlight goes out another blown fuse and I am like DAMN!!!!! So i put it up for the night pissed off.
The one thing that I thought did not look right was on the wiring harness for the aftermarket driving lights there was a 30a fuse that you could tell had got hot and the plastic partially melted but just the fact that it had a 30a fuse in it also caught my attention. Also on the headlight it looks like next to 2 of the 3 blades the base had got hot and does not look perfect but also does not look too much out of whack. The original fuse I pulled out looked like it had gotten some moisture on it and dried because there was little bit of white corrosion on the blades so I took a small screwdriver and scraped inside the fuse holder and dabbed a little dielectric grease the new fuses I tried. When I get home from work today I am going to disconnect my plugs for the left switch housing and see if the fuse still pops.
My thoughts are I do not have a direct ground or the fuse would immediately blow instead my headlight comes on for a few seconds (30-45sec) and then blows like I have something not getting a good connection and pulling too many amps to make up for the bad connection.
Sorry for the long post but if any of you electrical experts have any ideas let me know. Oh the original wire loom for the driving lights was zip tied to the outside of the wire tray so when i pulled it out it it did not come through the main wire tray under the tank. Thanks in advance for any help.
The previous owner had left all of the wiring in a birds nest up under seat and in front of the battery so I start finding the mess and making sure I don't pull anything vital. Now there was only one wire that went up to the headlight and they tied it into the yellow wire coming off the plug to the headlight. Which I am guessing the yellow wire is for the high beam and it will kill the driving lights when headlight is on high. I cut that to remove their splice and then I crimped a butt splice and shrink taped it.
I get everything back together and no headlight. Everything else works turn signals, horn the cruise control symbol lights up on the dash. so I look in the nacelle and do not see anything that stands out. I get my meter and check for voltage and I get nothing so I check the fuses and yep blown fuse. I go and get some more fuses and pop one in there and it immediately pops but I had my meter in the plug and I thought well maybe going from white to black was not the proper way to check voltage on the plug so pull my meter and put another fuse in there and turn the key on and the headlight comes on. So i cycle the ignition switch a couple of times and think great that was easy.
Not so fast I put everything back together and am about to go and road test my new cruise control and fire it up and notice my headlight goes out another blown fuse and I am like DAMN!!!!! So i put it up for the night pissed off.
The one thing that I thought did not look right was on the wiring harness for the aftermarket driving lights there was a 30a fuse that you could tell had got hot and the plastic partially melted but just the fact that it had a 30a fuse in it also caught my attention. Also on the headlight it looks like next to 2 of the 3 blades the base had got hot and does not look perfect but also does not look too much out of whack. The original fuse I pulled out looked like it had gotten some moisture on it and dried because there was little bit of white corrosion on the blades so I took a small screwdriver and scraped inside the fuse holder and dabbed a little dielectric grease the new fuses I tried. When I get home from work today I am going to disconnect my plugs for the left switch housing and see if the fuse still pops.
My thoughts are I do not have a direct ground or the fuse would immediately blow instead my headlight comes on for a few seconds (30-45sec) and then blows like I have something not getting a good connection and pulling too many amps to make up for the bad connection.
Sorry for the long post but if any of you electrical experts have any ideas let me know. Oh the original wire loom for the driving lights was zip tied to the outside of the wire tray so when i pulled it out it it did not come through the main wire tray under the tank. Thanks in advance for any help.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 273
Likes: 7
From: East TN
Well I wasted my time typing this crap out I went back out and disconnected my left side switch housing and turned the light on and the fuse did not blow. so I pulled my switch housing apart and where the smaller part wraps around to the bottom I just barely pinch the edge and it was the yellow wire touching the housing so it is repaired now.
Note to self and anyone else out there I was being extra careful when I changed my bars and did my cruise control so watch those wires it is a very tight fit there and where your clutch handle clamps on too. what a PITA!! But she is fixed and going to be rode today
Note to self and anyone else out there I was being extra careful when I changed my bars and did my cruise control so watch those wires it is a very tight fit there and where your clutch handle clamps on too. what a PITA!! But she is fixed and going to be rode today
Glad you got it figured out..Looks like a nice day to get out and ride here in Tennessee..Where are you at..We are in Granville between Nashville and Cookville..
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 273
Likes: 7
From: East TN
yea it sucks when you are the one that causes the problem on your bike but I am just glad that I was able to track it down myself the thought of taking it HD to track down an electrical problem makes me sick to my stomach.
I live in Sevierville just southeast of Knoxville. and yes it was a beautiful day and a great day to ride.
I live in Sevierville just southeast of Knoxville. and yes it was a beautiful day and a great day to ride.
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