When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
didnt even come CLOSE to clearing. my indy let me bring them back, and ordered me a set of the bagger apes
It just dawned on me that the bagger apes are 14" wide at the bottom (pretty sure they're gonna look ridiculous with the fairing removed)...I'm gonna call her in the morning and see if its not too late to hold off on the order.
are there any options for 14" apes that'll clear the MS batwing? Ive grown rather fond of it for the colder days / long rides...but I do like to take it off from time to time.
(or anyone got bagger bars on a RK that wouldnt mind throwing up a picture?)
What if you move the bars back to be in line with the forks when you have the fairing on. Then in the summer or whenever you take the fairing off, move them forward. I've seen a couple pics of guys with the different fairings and WO bars. Maybe you just have the bars too far forward?
I used 10 inch Yaffe MBB even though they say to use the OEM on a RK.
I did this to clear the fairing which is a Deadcenter. I had a MS before and I'm pretty sure if it clears the DC it wil clear the MS.
Here are some pictures with the fairing on and off.
booch: thats exactly what I was looking for...thanks!
as for moving the bars back and forth...it's not exactly a 5 minute job to move the bars back and forth. whole headlight has to come out, nacelle trim piece on top has to get loosened up to get the handlebar lock cover piece off...and then I can get to the bolts. WAY more work than I want to do every time I feel like riding without a fairing. plus, the bars are comfortable kicked forward a bit. I have fairly long arms (~36-37" on a dress shirt), and with the bars far enough back to clear the fairing, my elbows are damned near into my ribcage
first set of bars mocked up (set em up so they were comfortable....fairing was 5" from being able to be clipped in)
Sorry I can't give any advice but wondering if you have the fairing with or without stereo option. Best of luck!!! Trying to decide on a fairing for my Road King and not so sure I even want the stereo option (even if the money was there).
Originally Posted by booch
I used 10 inch Yaffe MBB even though they say to use the OEM on a RK.
I did this to clear the fairing which is a Deadcenter. I had a MS before and I'm pretty sure if it clears the DC it wil clear the MS.
Here are some pictures with the fairing on and off.
Dude, awesome looking Road King. What kind of windshield is that prior to fairing? Looks a lot like the 17" LRS dark tint I have on my bike now. Really like that black trim!!!
I didnt get the HogTunes setup just yet (planning on it sometime this winter though).
actually i'm REALLY digging that mini windshield....non obtrusive, looks really good with the wide bars. I think you just gave me a bit of inspiration if I dont like the looks without a fairing on the bike
Maybe your fairing is different the. Or the other guys have short arms. I know I have my 16" WO's rocked forward just a tad and have about 3/8" til it oiled hit the windshield. I have 35 1/2" arms so I know what you mean about the, being rocked back a bit. As for adjusting the bars, many people told me the same...remove headlight and all the other bs. When I got the service manual it never mentioned it and I was confused why so many people said that, unless they never read the service manual for torque and procedures. I just used the tip of a knife and popped the horizontal tab piece off of the riser cover. Just loosen the two lower riser bolts, adjust to desired position, torque bolts, and pop the little tabbed piece back in the riser cover. Saves all the hassle and bs and that's the way the service manual says to adjust them. Try your's and see. Should be the same design.
booch: thats exactly what I was looking for...thanks!
as for moving the bars back and forth...it's not exactly a 5 minute job to move the bars back and forth. whole headlight has to come out, nacelle trim piece on top has to get loosened up to get the handlebar lock cover piece off...and then I can get to the bolts. WAY more work than I want to do every time I feel like riding without a fairing. plus, the bars are comfortable kicked forward a bit. I have fairly long arms (~36-37" on a dress shirt), and with the bars far enough back to clear the fairing, my elbows are damned near into my ribcage
its less than a 5 minute job.
pop the little cover over the bar bolts, loosen the 2 bolts on the handlebar clamp that are exposed, move the bars then retorque.
I do it all the time its very easy. Check the manual the procedure and torque settings are there.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.