Right, because horsepower matters for a totally cold start vs. the factory settings!

 

If you are using a power commander the process literally takes 2-3 hours to run through the program. There is no reason for it to take longer than that. With a sert or similar device, it may take a little longer to adjust some parameters. Dyno tuning is a lot of wot, and especially If the dyno isn't properly cooled and ventilated, can be hard miles on a bike....

 

finally got bike back ,it had 140 miles on it, too cold to ride. I hope it is ok

 

My power commander required about 25 miles to tune. Keep in mind, after a tuning pull, the bike is left running in gear to cool the engine. The sert I recently had tuned racked up about 80 miles. With a sert, the tuner Installs a base map and then has to fine tune it from there. Understandably, it takes longer. A good tuner will also ride your bike after tuning to verify good driveabilty. It may take more than one road test to get it exact. 140 is a lot of miles, but If the bike ain't hurt and it performs good, it's worth it

 

What is......2 days & a few threads later....Hope she runs right for you....Check the AFR, this is important.....No spikes, between 13-14.....Did you installed cams? Pipes? What? 2 days is a long time. Ride safe when it warms up, Best, D

 

I finally had a chance to get out and ride after that two day tune. AWSOME!!!! cant believe its the same bike . blow ya right of the back. Im very happy.

 

WOW! Now THAT is a truly dumb reply. Do you grasp what 'tuning' actually entails? Not some crap *** Power commander, but a REAL tune by a REAL tuner... involves the proper adjustment of different cells for VEs and also... a good tuner adjusts timing, WHEN the timing gets into play. How the engine starts, HOT or COLD, etc. When timing gets pulled for heat, when timing gets added for cold. There is NO accelerator pump, so... don't you think, just a bit.... that TUNING adjusts these kinds of things?

C'mon..... You need to learn a bit more. Have you ever SEEN a list of the tables a decent tuner adjusts as part of his job?

 

Factory setttings at start-up need to be modified why?

 

All the settings like how the IAC, your timing, how much starting fuel, needs to be optimized AWAY from the super lean factory settings for a SMOOTH nice running bike. Can't just change the VE tables and call it done. Not only because of how these bikes 'start' either, but the stock settings are based upon the vehicle being able to pass 'cold start' emissions.

Thats fine and all, but NO where near optimal at all.

Even a simple stage 1 will respond favorably to this.

Heres an example for you. Ever hear someones bike, when dead *** cold start up and surge? Run fast, then fall on its face, then run fast again, etc until it is warm? THAT can ALL be cured by dialing in the settings involves with cold start. The more cam, the more compression, the more this needs to be done.

One can adjust the IAC to open right how you want it to do. Even DBW bikes have an "IAC" it just opens and closes the Throttle blade instead of a pin going into a port.

The IAC is the 'choke' on a bike, right? A tuner can adjust this three ways... how fast to close that port / blade; how fine of increments to close it while it is working (you can have it move in BIG steps or a bunch of little steps) and also what 'step' it needs to be in to start it's best (how far closed is an old choke). Your Tmax has a setting for initial 'fuel pulse', THAT is a squirt from an accelorator pump kind of thing. THAT is adjustable and effects cold start, see?

Then as the bike warms, timing comes into play. A cold engine will need different timing than a warm one. And... when dealing with timing, one has to 'match' whats happening as it warms and moves into the closed throttle spark tables.

NONE of this really truly matches after we go thru the different engine Stages to the 'stock' settings at all.

Lotsa of guys on here put up with what they 'think' is a 'tune', but it's actually pretty crappy if ALL areas are not tuned and maximized for a nice running bike. No surging, no stalling, can ride pretty much right away kind of nice.

Tuning is NOT, actually, about horsepower, but IS about a smooth nice riding bike with great manners. The increase in power comes naturally from the tuning process.

 

Glad I read this thread, thanks for the heads up Beav.