2000 FLHPI Cam plate/tensioner and cam upgrade

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Dec 22, 2012 | 09:05 PM

#11

skypilot_one

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From: Connecticut

djl,

I didn't think about the change of rotation, the cam positions would have to be swapped.

Looks like I'll go with the 99-06 SE kit and the tw21 cams for now and if I have a hankerin down the road I'll switch to gears when and if I need a complete rebuild.

Dec 22, 2012 | 10:27 PM

#12

djl

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From: san antonio

Quote:

Originally Posted by skypilot_one

Still wouldn't work. With chain drive both cams are turning the same direction but with gear drives the rear cam is turnning one way and the front the other. The only way it would work is to grind a rear cam with a profile that would match the valve timing if it were turning in the opposite direction. In that event, I suspect the cam lobes would likely come in contact with one another.

Nothing wrong with the 25284-11 kit; the upgraded pump alone makes it a worthwhile. Purchase from a discount dealer; kit, inner/outer bearings and gaskets. Don't worry about the silent chain; it will be fine running against the upgraded hydraulic tensioner shoe. No need to ever convert to gears unless the hankerin gets the best of you.

Dec 22, 2012 | 10:51 PM

#13

mikelikesbikes

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From: Socialist Republic of the USA

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biker John

Quick line...to each there own?

Here's a link I've been thinking about? Mainly, I get everything but would consider going to gear drive with this?

http://www.feulingparts.com/completecamchest.php

Oh...for a 2002 E.G. FLHTPI

Yeah, I wanted the Fueling kit but what I wanted was 2K. I ended up with Andrews 37's and quite happy. When I spoke to a tech at Andrews they recommended the 26 but glad I went with the extra kick out of the 37's.

Dec 23, 2012 | 01:22 AM

#14

RK4ME

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From: west Michigan

I went with the Andrews kit w/24Ns and Torrington inner cam bearings when I did my 95" build. I had no problems with the job and it runs great. I kept the stock pushrods too.

Dec 23, 2012 | 09:31 AM

#15

skypilot_one

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From: Connecticut

Quote:

Originally Posted by djl

The rear chain driven cam spins in the correct direction for that location when chain driven off the crankshaft, need to machine off the silent chain teeth, machine a keyway and add the inner gear, Or the aftermarket front cam will spin in the correct direction mounted in the rear cylinder direction and will need the splines to mount the outer driver sprocket and timing mark relocated. The aftermarket rear cylinder gear cam will spin in the correct direction when mounted for the front cylinder. Would need to change the keyway and timing mark on the original rear cylinder cam gear to run in the front cylinder location and machine a groove to take the retainer clip.

This could be a kit someone would purchase if they had a newer bike with too much total runout looking to get a little better timing, hp and eliminate the rear tensioner.

It would be great if someone could recommend an online discount dealer in a email or pm. Thanks

Last edited by skypilot_one; Dec 23, 2012 at 09:46 AM.

Dec 23, 2012 | 10:14 AM

#16

djl

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From: san antonio

Quote:

Originally Posted by skypilot_one

There may be other ways to make it work; I would have to think the above through before agreeing. Anyway, such a kit would not be cost effective solution. It costs $300 just to have the larger inner cam journals machined down to fit a race to they can be installed in an early model with the smaller inner cam bearings. Also just a bandaid patch that does not address the runout issue. If there was such an affordable kit, excessive runout beats up the oil pump and the damage will eventually cause a failure. The runout should be corrected at the source; true and weld the crank.

Quote:

Originally Posted by skypilot_one

It would be great if someone could recommend an online discount dealer in a email or pm. Thanks

New Castle (took over Zanotti's online business), Surdyke, Chicago H-D and there are a few others that don't come to mind at the moment. I have found New Castle to have the most reasonable shipping cost.

Dec 23, 2012 | 11:32 AM

#17

skypilot_one

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From: Connecticut

I agree about fixing the runout. Even welded and plugged cranks flex, twist and can come out of phase on hopped up engines.

stock engines can have excessive runout from the factory. While it's nice to fix them the thought of pulling the motor, splitting the cases, trueing, plugging, welding, retrueing and spending $2000 for labor on a brand new motor to correct runout isn't appealling it's appalling.

I'm thinking if someone has a motor with .004 runout and cant run a full gear setup an inner gear/outer chain setup may be appealing with it's forgiveness. Don't the new oil pumps have larger clearances?

Thank you for the online dealer list. I'll be contacting them from now on.

Last edited by skypilot_one; Dec 23, 2012 at 12:02 PM.

Dec 23, 2012 | 01:54 PM

#18

skypilot_one

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From: Connecticut

Thanks to everyone for their replies. Online prices to install the newer 06 and up cam plate, screaming eagle pump, Andrews N series cams and required outer sprocket with the cam position ring for my '00 is $668.51.

This is the least expensive way to get rid of the spring tensioners, both silent chains, the latest SE oil pump and a new set of cams. I already have the cam chest gasket so that price is not included.