Changing brake-lines (ABS) and using a Thundermax
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Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 194
Likes: 1
From: Toronto, Ont.
Changing brake-lines (ABS) and using a Thundermax
About to change out the front brake lines on my RGC to braided lines. Bike has ABS. I keep hereing about guys needing the HD 'digital-techincian' to re-set the ABS after loss of pressure in the system. I have bleed the brakes in the past, installed chrome master cylinder and have had no issues yet of the ABS not working. I also run a Thundermax tuner which replaces the stock ECM. Question...will I need to put the stock ECM back in place in-order for the system to be re-set? Or is there a way of changing the lines that hopefully I won't lose my ABS? Any tips/info would be greatly appreciated.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,002
Likes: 1,240
From: On the Front Range, CO
This is how I've done it when replacing these lines.
First, remove the MC from the bars and empty it.
Then, remove the upper line from the MC to the ABS Module, draining the line as well.
Third, remove the lower line, draining it as well.
(Let gravity do the draining)
At this point, the only place that has brake fluid is in the ABS module, which is fine.
Now, install the lower to the calipers and the ABS module.
Attach the upper to the MC (reinstalled on the bars at this point). Do not attach the other end to the ABS module, yet.
Fill the MC, and pump the lever until you're getting fluid at the ABS end of the line. You can use your thumb and index finger to pinch the bango fitting and let the line build slight pressure.
Basically, bleed the upper line free of air before hooking it up to the ABS module.
Once that's done, hook it to the ABS module, and set about bleeding as normal. With the upper already bled, you won't introduce air into the ABS module, unless you let the MC go dry again.
Word of caution - that DOT4 is corrosive to paint. I remove as many painted parts are possible, and cover what's left. Have shop rags around too. I also use an old cup while pre-bleeding the upper to catch any dripping fluid.
First, remove the MC from the bars and empty it.
Then, remove the upper line from the MC to the ABS Module, draining the line as well.
Third, remove the lower line, draining it as well.
(Let gravity do the draining)
At this point, the only place that has brake fluid is in the ABS module, which is fine.
Now, install the lower to the calipers and the ABS module.
Attach the upper to the MC (reinstalled on the bars at this point). Do not attach the other end to the ABS module, yet.
Fill the MC, and pump the lever until you're getting fluid at the ABS end of the line. You can use your thumb and index finger to pinch the bango fitting and let the line build slight pressure.
Basically, bleed the upper line free of air before hooking it up to the ABS module.
Once that's done, hook it to the ABS module, and set about bleeding as normal. With the upper already bled, you won't introduce air into the ABS module, unless you let the MC go dry again.
Word of caution - that DOT4 is corrosive to paint. I remove as many painted parts are possible, and cover what's left. Have shop rags around too. I also use an old cup while pre-bleeding the upper to catch any dripping fluid.
Last edited by Redbeard719; Jan 24, 2013 at 11:17 AM.
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