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2012 Road King Heat Management Issues

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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 05:19 AM
  #11  
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I had an issue right out the door with my FLHTK 103, the heat was incredible and the gas milage was so crazy low it was just freaky, a tank of gas in 20 miles. Back to the dealer it went. THey fixed it no questions asked and after they resolved it. I broke her in with 3,000 miles then changed the air, headers and slips and bought a t-max. I got faster throttle response, WAY less heat issues and was a lot happier with sound and performance. Since I have added more mods to the engine, but I think that is where you need to start. T-max, air cleaner, headers and slips. full stage one I guess is what it is called. There are tons of choices but what you can afford dictates alot. I went with Fuel Moto ceramic covered headers, Air and Klock exhaust. Love the sound and the performance and way less heat on the 103, which is what your road king has. GOod luck and rubber side down!!!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 09:54 AM
  #12  
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I agree have a 2012 FLHR (Road King) less than a 1000 miles on her. When idling in traffic 95 plus degrees she shuts down one cylinder (acting like an air pump) a real chugger of a idle but a quick move of the throttle and she back to normal for fifteen seconds repeating again. Was told this should not happen often or should say as much after the engine properly breaks in. I like the idea of removing the catalytic converter soon, and have original mufflers modified by American Customs, and bring everything together by adding a K&N air filter. Reading up on the Cobra Fi2000 w/CVT very impressive with a plug and play simple install system using your ECU and oxygen sensors with throttle position adjusting performance 80 times a second. It literally uses ECU, Oxygen Sensors, Throttle position as your own built in Dyno system constantly changing at any RPM at the speed of light. No mapping, or those expensive Dyno tunes. Most importantly no display hanging off the handle bars.

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Last edited by B Bop; Feb 23, 2013 at 10:16 AM. Reason: added a line
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 11:19 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by B Bop
Most importantly no display hanging off the handle bars.
That is not a requirement, it's up to the user I choose to use PV without having the display mounted and just flashed the ECM; I also don't have any additional connections.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 07:58 PM
  #14  
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Eric that's good to know, how do you like your PV system? Looking for the best fuel management system, if it’s needed! Was told by some that the stock set up is sufficient for minor modifications. I am new at this, just looking for what is best for my bike like everyone else, any input, suggestions?

B Bop
 
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 08:30 PM
  #15  
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like ericd says, no requirement to have the pv mounted, but if you choose to, you get to choose from a whole bunch of display options that you would like to monitor. myself, i flash my bike, then keep the pv unit in the saddlebag until i need it for something (like reading error codes on someone else's bike ), or to do some autotuning. my bike has been running so good that i haven't even bothered with at yet. maybe a little this spring/summer.

the cat is really not gonna have any effect on whether or not your bike goes into eitms mode. that is controlled by your cylinder head temp and the cat is far enough removed that it won't really affect that. now, for your own comfort, i would remove it.

this is where having a pv would really come in handy, you could monitor your own cht by way of the pv display and see at what temps it is kicking on.

but really, it should not be coming on if you've only travelled 5 miles or so. the engine is barely even warm then.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 01:54 PM
  #16  
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This operation of one cylinder shutting down was after riding a half hour stop & go traffic not moving at all for five to seven minutes at 95 to 98 degrees, shortly after that was getting good moving air 35 mph across her cooling fins. I made a decision never to take this root again, also if it would have lasted longer was scoping for a place to pull over and shut her down for a few hours out of the sun, but I was cruising steady right after. This happened twice in 947 miles. I never let her idle for more than 30 seconds before gunning the throttle just keeping the RPM’s at 1,500 to 1,800. I changed the oil/filter the next morning 612 miles were on the clock at the time. The heat that was coming off the cat was wicked, that’s when I decided to remove it soon before my leg gets cooked!

Will be looking into the PV, I like to plan out & research before purchasing.

B Bop
 
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Old Feb 24, 2013 | 02:17 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by B Bop
Eric that's good to know, how do you like your PV system? Looking for the best fuel management system, if it’s needed! Was told by some that the stock set up is sufficient for minor modifications. I am new at this, just looking for what is best for my bike like everyone else, any input, suggestions?

B Bop
I really like the PV unit I don't tinker with it at least not yet, I had the PCV before and never had a problem, I just didn't like the additional connection that was needed, stressing it never once gave me a problem. My issue is that I have other additional wiring under my seat and I didn't like adding to the maze. I leave the maps to Fuelmoto, it's nice that the PV as a "Basic Autotune" function if I want to try. I would give Fuelmoto a call and if you search here I think you'll find that most people if not almost all are happy working with them. This is my second power package upgrade and I didn't think of anyone else besides Fuelmoto.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 11:01 AM
  #18  
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Ok fast forward now have 5,000 miles on 2012 FLHR and changed oil & filter to Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w 50 synthetic. She runs a little cooler but not much 89 degree ambient temp., and if I come to a traffic light standing more then 30 seconds HMS kicks in. I'm thinking Harley has these 2012's running way too lean. Anyone else have similar heat problems? Looking for factory suggestions or needed repairs, (under warranty until October 2014).


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Last edited by B Bop; Jul 30, 2014 at 09:42 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 12:35 PM
  #19  
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When I took delivery of my 2012 Roadglide the heat would get so bad it would shut down. The ECM had problems and it took a download from the factory to correct it. After that was corrected I took the cat off and have been happy with it since. Also very hot here in central Texas
 
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Old Jul 29, 2014 | 12:40 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Garider01
Having what i seem to be a problem with my heat management on this bike. While at a red light heat mangemenet kicked on,once it activates the engine starts pinging and the engine practically stalls. I run 93 octane fuel, Temp today was 48 F. only travel 5 miles before it kicked on....The bike is stock no mods as of yet. Even though i'm tempted to remove the cat.
any suggestions?
Seems completely normal to me. It doesnt matter what the temp is outside (unless you live in an extreme cold environment), if the engine gets too hot, the activation will turn on. I have seen mine cut on in 30 degree weather many times. I would go outside to start the bike, let it run for a few minutes and then come back and it was firing on one cylinder. Quick roll of the throttle and all is back to normal. I too have a PC-V on my bike and all I can say is that I dont know its there. I guess thats a good thing....especially when I have stage I plus cams and compression bump....and its running on a mail order tune....no dyno session ever. 18k miles and counting since those upgrades were done and not a single issue ever.
 
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