Ok im taking the primary off to change out the drive sprocket from a 32 to a 30 tooth and changing the compensator out. What else should I change while in there? I've read about the hayden primary tensioner are they worth the $120? anything that I have missed?

Thanks Guys
O and yes I have a service manual

 

Sound good, while your in there I would check clutch hub. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...b-splines.html
Just to be on safe side. I had mine replaced under warranty when they replaced my starter.

 

Disconnect the battery if you're going to do anything with the starter. Apparently, the ignition does not need to be turned on for the electric motor to turn over. All it needs is for the starter gear to be pulled outward to engage the clutch basket gear and the battery contact is made and the motor turns. If you are holding the gear in your fingers it will run them through the gear joint.

 

This is exactly right. Disconnect that negative lead for sure because if you pull on that starter gear from the primary side, you will lose a finger or two.

On the aesthetics side, if you are going in that far...maybe a chrome inner primary? If your engine is going to produce tons of torque...maybe the SE clutch spring? I think the Hayden is also a good move. Red locktite that big compensator bolt...100 lbs initial torque, back out one turn, then take it to 140 lbs. Let it setup for 24 hours before you crank it up to let that locktite cure. Oh yea, chrome fasteners for the primary and clutch inspection cover? Maybe a new, decorative clutch inspection cover? OK I'm done!

 

I'll second the SE Heavy spring, cheap and you have to have the primary cover off to install it. Set yourself up for some more power later on.

 

If the starter solenoid components are in good working condition, this should not occur (on the `89 and later starters), but if the solenoid shaft is not working properly... this could happen.

There is a difference between the new configuration (89 and later) and the older starter solenoid shafts.

The older solenoids have a one piece shaft, so if you pull the pinion gear out toward the ring gear, you are also pulling the solenoid shaft which will bring the electrical contacts together, energizing the starter.

Another issue that can occur with the one piece solenoid shaft is starter run on, because if the gears cannot disengage for any reason, the starter will keep cranking even after the start button is released.

The newer solenoids don`t have a one piece shaft, instead there is a two piece shaft, connected to each other by a splined coupling in the center, so if the pinion gear is pulled, the shaft will just slide in the coupling, but the other end of the shaft that has the contacts should not move (as long as the parts are not damaged, corroded etc.)

Other than the obvious safety advantage, it eliminates starter run on, because even if the gears cannot disengage, the part of the shaft with the contacts will retract when the start button is released, disconnecting the current and de-energizing the starter.

But even though the starter should not (theoretically) engage if the pinion gear is pulled out, disconnecting the battery first is always the best way to go…

 

Plus1 on this as I had that happen to me on my 03 while on the road. The first day of a three week trip to Alaska. Turned into a very spendy day at a dealer I had to be towed to.
A riding co-worker told me he was having issues like mine and I told him to look at the splines in his clutch hub. He came back and told me his splines were gone.
I check mine anytime I have it apart now.

 

SE clutch spring, M6 tensioner is a great investment and look into the ClutchWiz from triglidestuff.com for reduced clutch pull effort.