Thanks for the replys. I'll check this area in the a.m

 

2black1s

It's been too long for me to remember for sure but I got a CEL and a code but I don't know what it was. After looking at the DTC list I assume it was probably a C1032-front wheel speed sensor open/shorted or C1025-front wheel speed sensor intermittent.

I rode the bike to the dealership very carefully. The brakes worked fine with the ABS light on, I just wasn't sure if the ABS was working and I didn't want to try to lock up the wheels to find out. I didn't document any codes and neither did the service dept at the dealership.

 

When my ABS light went to steady on due to the wire issue, I can tell you that the ABS was not working for either brakes, I tried it to find out. Rode around like that for a while, until I finally fixed it.

 

Checked the codes this moring and found 67348-04D, being tht this is the Tach part number now what. Can the tach be serviced or do I need to seek a replacement?
Thanks in advance for any advise.

 

After changing the sensor did you ride the bike. Most abs systems will not reset or recognize the new sensor until the vehicle senses forward rolling resistance. Usually 10 mph

 

The part number shouldn't show up until you are done running through the codes. You should have seen a code or "none" before seeing the part number. Are you certain you're doing the process correctly? I'm at a loss.

 

"none" did come up and then the part number if I remember correctly.

 

Tried the ABS today and it is working even though the ABS light on the tach is staying on. Being that I checked and there are no codes, just the tack part number 67348-04D, does that mean that the tach is defective and needs replacing?

 

ABS light is still on. ABS is working, here are the codes,

P - None
S - None
SP - None
t - None
b - No RSP

 

It sounds like the tach is malfunctioning and will need replacing. There is one more test you can perform. In the manual it's called a "WOW" Test.

Here is the diagnostic procedure from my 2011 manual for "ABS Indicator Always On Or Inoperative"

1. DTC Test
1. Verify that the vehicle is equipped with ABS and has the appropriate speedometer (FLHR/C) or tachometer (except FLHR/C).
2. Clear DTCs. See 2.1 INITIAL DIAGNOSTICS.
3. Are any ABS DTCs pesent?
a. Yes. See appropriate diagnostic procedure.
b. No. Go to Test 2.

2. ABS Lamp Function Test
1. Perform a "WOW" Test. See 2.1 INITIAL DIAGNOSTICS.
2. Does the ABS lamp function properly during the "WOW" test?
a. Yes. Go to Test 3.
b. No. Replace the speedometer (FLHR/C) or tachometer (except FLHR/C). See the service manual.

It goes on from here through Test 7 but I don't think you need that information. I suspect you're going to fail Test 2. (ABS Lamp Function Test) so no need to go any farther. You've already done Test 1. (DTC Test).

The "WOW" test is simply entering the diagnostic mode and verifying the following: 1) Background lighting illuminates. 2) Gauge needles sweep their full range of motion. 3) Indicator lamps should illuminate.

In item 3) of the "WOW" test your ABS light should come on solid and then change to the intermitent flashing as it would in normal operation. I suspect yours is going to stay on solid which indicates that it fails the "ABS Lamp Function Test" above. If that is in fact the case then the tachometer needs replacing.

I'm going by what I'm reading in the Electrical Diagnostic Manual. I don't have any actual experience with such a failure so take this for what it's worth. I'd run this info by the dealer's service dept. before laying out the bucks for a new tachometer just to be safe. Problem is, they probably won't be much help unless they have a tech working there that's really good at troubleshooting and not just parts replacement. Good luck with that. And one final note - I'm not sure why you're getting a "no rsp" when checking the "b" module (ABS) codes. No rsp means the bike isn't recognized as having ABS. That maybe another clue, I'm just not sure what.