New cams break-in period?
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: Florida
New cams break-in period?
I have a set of Wood 555's cams, directional lifters and adjustable pushrods coming from Fuel Moto 
and was wondering if there is a break-in period (like the "first 500" mile thing for new engines)? I hadn't heard anyone mention it but thought I'd ask now.
Also, anyone have a preference of assembly lube and a source? Thanks for your responses in advance.
and was wondering if there is a break-in period (like the "first 500" mile thing for new engines)? I hadn't heard anyone mention it but thought I'd ask now. Also, anyone have a preference of assembly lube and a source? Thanks for your responses in advance.
Road Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,229
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From: Greater St Louis, MO
The only time I worry about a break in is if I have the jugs off. I haven't used assembly lube on lifters as I soak them in oil prior to installing, but do put some in the bearings for the cams. I can't remember the brand I have, so no preference on my end.
Last edited by dougbk; Mar 21, 2013 at 09:46 AM.
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From: Florida
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Just soaking the lifters in oil won't get the oil inside of the lifters. You should get a plastic syringe and actually inject the oil into the oil passages to ensure there is oil in there. The surface tension of the oil may not allow it to seep into these passages overnight.
Also, fill each pushrod with oil just before you sit it on the lifter and start adjusting it.
All of this pre-charging of the lifters and the rods will go a long way toward shortening the "pump-up" period at first start.
I use assembly lube on the inner bearing races to aid installation. I bought mine at an Advance Auto store. Small bottle, looks like red syrup. Cannot remember the name of it.
Don't remove your oil pump during this process. But do replace all THREE O-rings while you are in there. Lots of guys replace only the main large O-ring and leave the other two alone. But it's best to replace them all with new rings while you are in there.
If you can borrow a meter set-up, you should try to measure your crank runout while you have all of this apart. If for no other reason than just to know what it is.
Be careful handling your pushrod tube Orings. If you nick one of them or damage it in any way, it can and usually will create a leak point that you really don't want to have to deal with. So be careful handling these rings.
Use a new cam cover gasket...you might get away with using the old one, but why take a chance on a leak?
Use a quality inch pound torque wrench for this project. Don't settle for less...i.e.cheap Chinese replicas.
Take your time and double/triple check everything.
BTW, no break-in for just a cam job. BUT, go EASY until you ensure that you have the appropriate tune for the timing, lift, and duration of your new grind.
Also, fill each pushrod with oil just before you sit it on the lifter and start adjusting it.
All of this pre-charging of the lifters and the rods will go a long way toward shortening the "pump-up" period at first start.
I use assembly lube on the inner bearing races to aid installation. I bought mine at an Advance Auto store. Small bottle, looks like red syrup. Cannot remember the name of it.
Don't remove your oil pump during this process. But do replace all THREE O-rings while you are in there. Lots of guys replace only the main large O-ring and leave the other two alone. But it's best to replace them all with new rings while you are in there.
If you can borrow a meter set-up, you should try to measure your crank runout while you have all of this apart. If for no other reason than just to know what it is.
Be careful handling your pushrod tube Orings. If you nick one of them or damage it in any way, it can and usually will create a leak point that you really don't want to have to deal with. So be careful handling these rings.
Use a new cam cover gasket...you might get away with using the old one, but why take a chance on a leak?
Use a quality inch pound torque wrench for this project. Don't settle for less...i.e.cheap Chinese replicas.
Take your time and double/triple check everything.
BTW, no break-in for just a cam job. BUT, go EASY until you ensure that you have the appropriate tune for the timing, lift, and duration of your new grind.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 10,602
Likes: 721
From: Bellevue, NE
Getting ready to do cams on mine if the new lifters ever arrive. I bought the Screamin Eagle assembly lube. Also I'm planning on installing travel limiters in the new lifters and just lubing the outside and installing them "dry". They'll pump up soon enough.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Maryland near DC
I hold the lifters in a can of oil and use the push rod to pump the air out of them by pushing the inner cup in and out until there are no more air bubbles coming out of the side hole..then just leave them in the oil until I am ready to install them...
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
Good idea
