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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 09:05 AM
  #11  
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thanks guys have a phone call to them left message and waiting for a call to see what answer is. this was all agreed on when i found out clutch was bad. i really think the tech gernaded motor and messed up clutch and oh forgot one other thing they said my back rings were bag on pistin and had to replace them but that was on there dime because it was still in warrenty thank god. this has been a nightmare.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #12  
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My brother drank too much Patron one Saturday afternoon when changing fluids on his Ultra. Somehow put 140 gear oil in the primary and 20W-50 in the transmission. He was telling me about it the following week and I asked him how he discovered it. He said "the damn thing didn't want to shift very good". Still, all was good. He just drained out the primary and the gear box and switched fluids (to where they belonged). All was well and the world did not come to an end. This has absolutely nothing to do with your problem though, I just though of it when I read your post. Continue on. Thank you.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 10:04 AM
  #13  
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thanks guys and oh by the way when they dynoed it they told me my back cylider rings were bad. and had to be replaced? but that was on there dime still under warranty. this has turned into a nightmare.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 10:28 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by laabdog
thanks guys have a phone call to them left message and waiting for a call to see what answer is. this was all agreed on when i found out clutch was bad. i really think the tech gernaded motor and messed up clutch and oh forgot one other thing they said my back rings were bag on pistin and had to replace them but that was on there dime because it was still in warrenty thank god. this has been a nightmare.
So after reading all of this, this is a new Harley, it has 3300 miles on it, you took it in to get cam, ac, pipes, and dyno. Stealer tells you the clutch is shot. Unless you have been riding the clutch, I don't see it. If anything, it was not adjusted correctly when the bike was set up. Have you noticed it slipping? On top of everything it should have been warranty, you may have had to pay for the SE spring which will make your clutch noticeably harder to pull.

E. Heavy Duty Clutch Spring for Stock Clutch
37951-98 $29.95
 

Last edited by $tonecold; Apr 8, 2013 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 11:31 AM
  #15  
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had to pay 450.00 for clutch because its a wear part. thats what they said ? over the original price for work being done
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 12:58 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by laabdog
had to pay 450.00 for clutch because its a wear part. thats what they said ? over the original price for work being done
I think what they are getting at is it is a part that the operator can cause abnormal wear on. Kind of like doing burn outs does to the rear tire. Did they by any chance instruct you on how to not be hard on your clutch? Anyway, here is the part number for the SE clutch. If that is what they told you they were going to install then that should be what you got along with the SE clutch spring that was in my last post. The price for all the SE parts should have been around $200.

Screamin’ EagleŽ Performance Clutch Friction Disc Kit

Newly-developed friction material delivers longer life than
Original Equipment friction discs. Kit includes new precision machined
flat steel plates.

37980-10 $169.95
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 01:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by hogcowboy
Now that sucks. With the lying I'd wonder if they weren't the cause of your clutch failure. That's just not right. Are you using the clutch to hold position on hills? That and not completely releasing it is all I can think of in normal operation that might cause you to wear out a clutch in that time. Or it wasn't adjusted properly to begin with. You need to understand what is causing it or you'll right back here no matter what clutch they put in.
3300 miles and the clutch is wore out! Very suspicious starting with the SE lie....happens all the time with car repairs, I shouldn't be surprised people being taken with bikes also. Makes you wonder what else you didn't get.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 01:08 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by laabdog
i have a 2011 road king classic. dealer said im hard on a clutch when i ride? was wondering what is the big difference between stock clutch and a screamin eagle. would i get more life out of the screamin eagle or just stay with the stock and learn how to ride better lol. just put rienhart slip ons with vance and hines headers. open air cleaner and 204 cams. also had it dyno tuned. pushing 85 horsepower and 101 torque now.
I have used the Screamin Eagle Clutch in a couple bikes. Still have it in my '03. The biggest difference is the increased surface area for friction material, an extra clutch plate and the thicker diaphram spring. The difference between stock and the SE unit is the difference between pulling the front wheel in 2nd and 3rd gear and not getting it up. If you are an agressive rider the reward will put a smile on your face. If you don't need it or have the horsepower to use it, the pain in your wallet will make it way to your left arm as the thicker clutch spring results in alot more effort from your left hand to disengage the clutch. My '03 is not as bad as an '89 I did, it would have me sore the first few weeks of riding season.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 01:13 PM
  #19  
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Premature clutch failure can also be a result of something sticking in the clutch mechanism. I smoked the stock clutch in an '81 FXRS and replaced it with a new Barnett clutch. The new clutch was not smooth, and wasn't long before I was adjusting springs on the clutch hub trying to get the new clutch to stop slipping. SHortly after this I pulled the ball off the end of my clutch cable and had to repalce it. Installed the new cable and the clutch problems went away. Aparently the cable was getting more stuck over time and because it happened over time I didn't realize the sticking cable was keeping the clutch from engaging.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 04:44 AM
  #20  
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thank you all
 
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