Fuel Moto header Install Question
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
Fuel Moto header Install Question
It's saturday and Fuel Moto is not open to ask this question.
I'm hoping I can get some help here.
I am installing my new stainless 2-1-2 header but the fitment doesn't seem quite right.
Installed new OEM tapered gaskets into the exhaust ports.
When I snug up the exhaust flange nuts to a mere 20 inch/lbs to centre everything, let the pipes centre themselves into the exhaust ports, and take all the slack out of the system, the front pipe is only a few thou from contacting the pin on the rear master cylinder brake lever actuator. Also, the pipe support flange that fits under the transmission support bracket is about a 3/8 - 1/4 inch below the bracket.
I cannot move the pipe up by hand as all is quite snug. I fail to see how it will all move the required amount away from the brake actuator pin and exhaust bracket if I tighten the flanges to the req'd torque of 110 Inch lbs.
If I tighten the exhaust flange mount first I feel that the pipes will not centre themselves correctly into the exhaust ports.
Anyone else experience this?
I don't want to torque it all up and deform the gaskets in any way by experimenting, only to end up with leaks afterwards.
Thanks in advance for your replies guys.
I'm hoping I can get some help here.
I am installing my new stainless 2-1-2 header but the fitment doesn't seem quite right.
Installed new OEM tapered gaskets into the exhaust ports.
When I snug up the exhaust flange nuts to a mere 20 inch/lbs to centre everything, let the pipes centre themselves into the exhaust ports, and take all the slack out of the system, the front pipe is only a few thou from contacting the pin on the rear master cylinder brake lever actuator. Also, the pipe support flange that fits under the transmission support bracket is about a 3/8 - 1/4 inch below the bracket.
I cannot move the pipe up by hand as all is quite snug. I fail to see how it will all move the required amount away from the brake actuator pin and exhaust bracket if I tighten the flanges to the req'd torque of 110 Inch lbs.
If I tighten the exhaust flange mount first I feel that the pipes will not centre themselves correctly into the exhaust ports.
Anyone else experience this?
I don't want to torque it all up and deform the gaskets in any way by experimenting, only to end up with leaks afterwards.
Thanks in advance for your replies guys.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 171
From: Simi Valley, CA
If you loosen the flanges can you move the pipe to create the clearance you need at the brake pin? And get the trans bracket lined up?
I would try that and if you can get the pipe positioned correctly with the flanges loosened, then proceed by attaching the trans bracket (not tightened, but in position), putting a spacer (paint stick or something similar) between the brake pin and the pipe to provide for clearance, then start tightening the flanges.
The gaskets should conform to the pipe if you do it this way.
I would try that and if you can get the pipe positioned correctly with the flanges loosened, then proceed by attaching the trans bracket (not tightened, but in position), putting a spacer (paint stick or something similar) between the brake pin and the pipe to provide for clearance, then start tightening the flanges.
The gaskets should conform to the pipe if you do it this way.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
I have the 2-1-2 ceramic coated header.
When I ordered it, I spoke to Jamie and he hooked me up with the correct one for my 09 Streetglide.
I am not aware of a new larger one that you mention.
I believe that it is the correct one.
I am not able to post any pics at this time.
When I ordered it, I spoke to Jamie and he hooked me up with the correct one for my 09 Streetglide.
I am not aware of a new larger one that you mention.
I believe that it is the correct one.
I am not able to post any pics at this time.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
If you loosen the flanges can you move the pipe to create the clearance you need at the brake pin? And get the trans bracket lined up?
I would try that and if you can get the pipe positioned correctly with the flanges loosened, then proceed by attaching the trans bracket (not tightened, but in position), putting a spacer (paint stick or something similar) between the brake pin and the pipe to provide for clearance, then start tightening the flanges.
The gaskets should conform to the pipe if you do it this way.
I would try that and if you can get the pipe positioned correctly with the flanges loosened, then proceed by attaching the trans bracket (not tightened, but in position), putting a spacer (paint stick or something similar) between the brake pin and the pipe to provide for clearance, then start tightening the flanges.
The gaskets should conform to the pipe if you do it this way.
Thanks
I am going to go out and fiddle with it now and try your recommendation.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,579
Likes: 10
From: S.E. MO
Loosen everything up and see if you can get it aligned
One little thing tightened up out of line throws it all off. I had my header all down (I thought ) but it was hitting oil pan. Simply loosening everything allowed me to adjust it then retightened everything.
One little thing tightened up out of line throws it all off. I had my header all down (I thought ) but it was hitting oil pan. Simply loosening everything allowed me to adjust it then retightened everything.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
I loosened everything up and tightened the transmission mounting flange first to get to sit tight against the bracket. Then I tightend in the exhaust flanges slowly and carefully in 20 in/lb increments to 110 in/lbs as per the manual.
The clearance between the front header and the brake actuator is now at about 3/16".
I still think that with the engine shake it will be hitting the pin.
Anyway the right muffler goes on niceley but when I install the crossover pipe, the left muffler angles in too far towards the inside of the rear wheel and takes considerable force to pull it out enough to get the muffler mounting bolts in. This is definately not right.
If I move the crossover out any more towards the left side of the bike there is not enough engagement with the header pipe.
I spent 3 hours in 38 degree weather messing with this damn thing!
ARRRGH...IF I NEVER DO THIS AGAIN IT WILL BE TOO SOON!
Damn am I frustrated with this. I am very mechanically inclined and do all my own wrenching on my cars and bike.
I have never had this much trouble before. It's like the geometry of the pipes is not quite right.
I worry that the exhaust flange gaskets will be ruined after all this tightening, loosening and repositioning of the header.
Has nobody else had this much trouble installing these?
I have put it away for tonight and will try again tomorrow when I have cleared my head.
The clearance between the front header and the brake actuator is now at about 3/16".
I still think that with the engine shake it will be hitting the pin.
Anyway the right muffler goes on niceley but when I install the crossover pipe, the left muffler angles in too far towards the inside of the rear wheel and takes considerable force to pull it out enough to get the muffler mounting bolts in. This is definately not right.
If I move the crossover out any more towards the left side of the bike there is not enough engagement with the header pipe.
I spent 3 hours in 38 degree weather messing with this damn thing!
ARRRGH...IF I NEVER DO THIS AGAIN IT WILL BE TOO SOON!
Damn am I frustrated with this. I am very mechanically inclined and do all my own wrenching on my cars and bike.
I have never had this much trouble before. It's like the geometry of the pipes is not quite right.
I worry that the exhaust flange gaskets will be ruined after all this tightening, loosening and repositioning of the header.
Has nobody else had this much trouble installing these?
I have put it away for tonight and will try again tomorrow when I have cleared my head.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
The Best and Worst Harley-Davidson Moves of 2025
Verdad Gallardo
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,335
Likes: 5
From: CT
I loosened everything up and tightened the transmission mounting flange first to get to sit tight against the bracket. Then I tightend in the exhaust flanges slowly and carefully in 20 in/lb increments to 110 in/lbs as per the manual.
The clearance between the front header and the brake actuator is now at about 3/16".
I still think that with the engine shake it will be hitting the pin.
Anyway the right muffler goes on niceley but when I install the crossover pipe, the left muffler angles in too far towards the inside of the rear wheel and takes considerable force to pull it out enough to get the muffler mounting bolts in. This is definately not right.
If I move the crossover out any more towards the left side of the bike there is not enough engagement with the header pipe.
I spent 3 hours in 38 degree weather messing with this damn thing!
ARRRGH...IF I NEVER DO THIS AGAIN IT WILL BE TOO SOON!
Damn am I frustrated with this. I am very mechanically inclined and do all my own wrenching on my cars and bike.
I have never had this much trouble before. It's like the geometry of the pipes is not quite right.
I worry that the exhaust flange gaskets will be ruined after all this tightening, loosening and repositioning of the header.
Has nobody else had this much trouble installing these?
I have put it away for tonight and will try again tomorrow when I have cleared my head.
The clearance between the front header and the brake actuator is now at about 3/16".
I still think that with the engine shake it will be hitting the pin.
Anyway the right muffler goes on niceley but when I install the crossover pipe, the left muffler angles in too far towards the inside of the rear wheel and takes considerable force to pull it out enough to get the muffler mounting bolts in. This is definately not right.
If I move the crossover out any more towards the left side of the bike there is not enough engagement with the header pipe.
I spent 3 hours in 38 degree weather messing with this damn thing!
ARRRGH...IF I NEVER DO THIS AGAIN IT WILL BE TOO SOON!
Damn am I frustrated with this. I am very mechanically inclined and do all my own wrenching on my cars and bike.
I have never had this much trouble before. It's like the geometry of the pipes is not quite right.
I worry that the exhaust flange gaskets will be ruined after all this tightening, loosening and repositioning of the header.
Has nobody else had this much trouble installing these?
I have put it away for tonight and will try again tomorrow when I have cleared my head.
Tourer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 300
Likes: 6
From: South Carolina
I believe Fuel Moto will want to send another pipe and get this pipe back. This is one reason I like to decat the stock head pipes and use them. There's no fitment problems with the stock head pipes and I haven't seen any advantage on the dyno using aftermarket pipes with stage I or just a cam change.
Billy
Billy