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I posted this question in the general section without much feedback..thought I would try here.
I purchased the cams, pushrods and lifters from Fuel Moto. I read all the threads and watched all the videos......
I was reading the lifter install directions from Fuel Moto and it says to run a compression check with the throttle open after adjusting the pushrods. This is the first time running across this test when reading about a cam change. Is this necessary or is it for those doing the big builds or more complex engine work?
I never did. I was real comfortable on setting my rods.
If you email or call Fuelmoto, they can probably give you the lowdown on why that is in their instructions. probably to make sure the valves are sealed up top....
So if I don't do the test but screw up the pushrod installation, what will happen when I start it up. Can major damage be done to the bike? Or will it just run like crap?
the way I do a comp test is to turn the engine over with the comp gauge installed. if the pushrods are not set right then you would put the valve into the top of the piston; if you set the pushrods as most instructions say, and let them bleed down before starting to the next set, everthing should be good. or they may be taking about compression test after setting to make sure they are all closed during cycling...but you would probably need a test before you started the process to determine if the numbers are the same....
Follow the directions, just make sure the lifters are both down as far as they can go on the camshaft when you adjust your pushrods. Watch the S&S video
OK, so if I do decide you run a compression test are these the correct steps? (note: I have my tank currently off)
1) connect battery
2) spark plugs already removed
3) gas tank and fuel lines connected
4) disconnect spark plug wires from the ignition coil
5) connect gauge in one spark plug hole
6) open throttle and hold down start button until gauge stops moving
7) record pressure and repeat on other cylinder
dont forget to unplug your decompression releases while doing the testing or u will get a lower number. did mine plugged in and unplugged just to verify that they are both working. think it dropped about 30 lbs while plugged in if i recall the numbers. checking the compression after a cam job is a pretty good idea, lets u verify cam timing is correct, both cylinders should be fairly close, also gives u a number to start with in case u have a problem later, u know where u started after the rebuild.
If u have throttle by wire u will have to force the throttle plate open with a screw driver, since it will only open a bit while trying to start on its own from iac setting until it fires up. it will give a lower reading if u dont force it open.
Last edited by 2009blackpearle; Apr 26, 2013 at 09:06 PM.
OK, so if I do decide you run a compression test are these the correct steps? (note: I have my tank currently off)
1) connect battery
2) spark plugs already removed
3) gas tank and fuel lines connected
4) disconnect spark plug wires from the ignition coil
5) connect gauge in one spark plug hole
6) open throttle and hold down start button until gauge stops moving
7) record pressure and repeat on other cylinder
Is this correct? Anything missing?
Thanks.
If I'm not mistaken, I think you need to ground the ignition system. Just leave your spark plug wires attached at the ignition and then run a wire from the spark plug end to a ground on the bike. You don't want your wires sparking to nothing.
OK, so if I do decide you run a compression test are these the correct steps? (note: I have my tank currently off)
1) connect battery
2) spark plugs already removed
3) gas tank and fuel lines connected
4) disconnect spark plug wires from the ignition coil
5) connect gauge in one spark plug hole
6) open throttle and hold down start button until gauge stops moving
7) record pressure and repeat on other cylinder
Is this correct? Anything missing?
Thanks.
If I'm not mistaken, I believe you need to ground your ignition system. Just leave your plug wires attached to the coil and run a ground wire from the end of the plug wires to a ground on the bike (any bolt will do). You don't want your wires sparking to nothing.
If I'm not mistaken, I believe you need to ground your ignition system. Just leave your plug wires attached to the coil and run a ground wire from the end of the plug wires to a ground on the bike (any bolt will do). You don't want your wires sparking to nothing.
Wouldn't unplugging the wires from the coil make this unnecessary?
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