Stator shorted to itself
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
I'm trying to picture those wires being "from the stator". Your stator and it's wiring is inside the primary. They would be connected to the plug in the front of the primary, which goes to the voltage regulator. The stator wiring uses a socket in the front of the motor, coming out of the primary, that the voltage regulator plugs into.
And it'll be the primary oil that stinks, like a burned out electric transformer stench.
Maybe it's just me but I'm having a hard time getting my bearing with the photo, I'm seeing the forward frame down tube and the engine alignment adjuster, but the wires seem odd for some reason.
I have often used electrical tape for a repair or to re-insulate bared wires. Many suggest slipping some shrink tube over it after soldering the worn / weak spot.
It may be time to dig into the primary to get to the stator. Smell the oil it's a real "tell".
And it'll be the primary oil that stinks, like a burned out electric transformer stench.
Maybe it's just me but I'm having a hard time getting my bearing with the photo, I'm seeing the forward frame down tube and the engine alignment adjuster, but the wires seem odd for some reason.
I have often used electrical tape for a repair or to re-insulate bared wires. Many suggest slipping some shrink tube over it after soldering the worn / weak spot.
It may be time to dig into the primary to get to the stator. Smell the oil it's a real "tell".
Last edited by JohnnyC; May 15, 2013 at 09:16 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,392
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From: Delaware
I'm guessing those wires were shorting out on the motor mount before you moved them creating a draw that killed your battery. It's just a guess from looking at the picture, but it does look like the wires are worn through enough to arc.
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From: usa
According to my 09 manual.The resistance across the pins of the stator connector should be .1-.2 ohms and open to grnd.The oup of the stator should be 32-46VAC@2000RPM.Approx 16-23VAC per 1000 RPM
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Maryland near DC
if the winding are shorted to themselves you will still get the proper voltage but the amount of current that the stator can make is reduced, the test for it is to ohm the stator wires to each other and check that it is what the book calls for if the ohms are less than called for than the stator wires are shorted to each themselves.. the stator windings are a long piece of wire wrapped around itself (there are acually 3 sets of them) and if it is shorted to itself it acts like a much shorter wire and thus has less resistance which is measured in ohms....so a shorted to itself acts as a much smaller alternator which wont make enough current (amps) to replace the current (amps) used by the light, ignition etc...so your voltage may read correctly when you test the alternator unplugged from the system as there is no current draw at that time...
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Thanks again for the replies and helping me to understand this better. Well I got the primary off and went to take the compensating sprocket off and it was finger loose. I pushed on the rotor and that was loose too. That's all I have for now. Just took a dinner break!
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Nice photo, good job digging in!
Did that oil stink?
I just have to say it was a real blessing you tore into it. A loose compensator "nut" (looks like a bolt but called a nut) is why the rotor possible was spinning almost freely and wasn't keeping up speed. And a loose compensator is noisy and causes a lot of vibration. You feel a difference, an improvement in how smooth it idles and runs at a cruise. Also the nut can back right into the primary and tear a hole through it, but it grinds really bad once it makes contact.
Be sure to degrease the crank's threads and inside the nut so the loctite will hold as it's supposed to. Odds are it takes 100 foot pounds to torque it down. Some give it just a little more and then back it off to torque.
Check the rotors magnets when it becomes loose and wobbles it can bump the magnets to the coil which could be the damage we're seeing in the photo. When they burn up they blacken a lot. If you see any type of contact on the magnets of the rotor I would add that to the parts list.
Even though they don't tell you, add some silicone sealant to the plug from the stator that goes through the primary. You'd think fresh rubber would seal but I've had a leak there from NOT putting sealant on it as an extra precaution.
Keep us informed. This has been a good conversation and you're doing really good tackling it.
Did that oil stink?
I just have to say it was a real blessing you tore into it. A loose compensator "nut" (looks like a bolt but called a nut) is why the rotor possible was spinning almost freely and wasn't keeping up speed. And a loose compensator is noisy and causes a lot of vibration. You feel a difference, an improvement in how smooth it idles and runs at a cruise. Also the nut can back right into the primary and tear a hole through it, but it grinds really bad once it makes contact.
Be sure to degrease the crank's threads and inside the nut so the loctite will hold as it's supposed to. Odds are it takes 100 foot pounds to torque it down. Some give it just a little more and then back it off to torque.
Check the rotors magnets when it becomes loose and wobbles it can bump the magnets to the coil which could be the damage we're seeing in the photo. When they burn up they blacken a lot. If you see any type of contact on the magnets of the rotor I would add that to the parts list.
Even though they don't tell you, add some silicone sealant to the plug from the stator that goes through the primary. You'd think fresh rubber would seal but I've had a leak there from NOT putting sealant on it as an extra precaution.
Keep us informed. This has been a good conversation and you're doing really good tackling it.