Easy to replace brake pads myself???
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Northern Utah
Not to point out the obvious, but...
Removing the caliper is part of the disassembly process for the wheel; you have to remove the caliper first to get the wheel off. So it can definitely be done without removing the wheel.
I do not agree with removing the wheel as part of servicing the pads, but to each his own. It is unnecessary and adds a layer of complexity to what is a quite simple job.
Suggest you pick up the service manual, if you don't already have one.
Also be careful depressing the caliper pistons- you need to push them in to make room for the new pads. You'll push excess fluid up to the master cylinder, which can overflow if it's full.
Brake fluid can ruin paint, so make sure to immediately neutralize and remove any spilled.
Lastly pump the brakes a few times before your first ride- the new pads will have to adjust and the first time you grab the brake it will not work unless you have pumped it a few times previously.
All that said it really is a simple job, just take your time and be thorough.
I do not agree with removing the wheel as part of servicing the pads, but to each his own. It is unnecessary and adds a layer of complexity to what is a quite simple job.
Suggest you pick up the service manual, if you don't already have one.
Also be careful depressing the caliper pistons- you need to push them in to make room for the new pads. You'll push excess fluid up to the master cylinder, which can overflow if it's full.
Brake fluid can ruin paint, so make sure to immediately neutralize and remove any spilled.
Lastly pump the brakes a few times before your first ride- the new pads will have to adjust and the first time you grab the brake it will not work unless you have pumped it a few times previously.
All that said it really is a simple job, just take your time and be thorough.
Removing the caliper is part of the disassembly process for the wheel; you have to remove the caliper first to get the wheel off. So it can definitely be done without removing the wheel.
I do not agree with removing the wheel as part of servicing the pads, but to each his own. It is unnecessary and adds a layer of complexity to what is a quite simple job.
.
I do not agree with removing the wheel as part of servicing the pads, but to each his own. It is unnecessary and adds a layer of complexity to what is a quite simple job.
.
It's pretty simple just follow the directions in the manual. there is also a website that you can read upon to clean your calipers @ this address www.lyndallbrakes.com under service/tech to check it out very helpful. Good luck!
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Northern Utah
My bad, missed that it was 2000 model.
For brake bleeding, I suggest you invest in a MityVac or the Sears version of it. The job of bleeding the brake lines is immeasurably easier with the MityVac. You can use it on your cars/trucks, etc as well. Also, make sure you have all the correct sizes of wrenches and other needed tools handy before you start. I've got an '09, so I don't have to remove a wheel, just be careful that I don't get brake fluid on my paint. I have a Pitbull lift, so, again my task is made that much easier. I kinda look forward to doing these types of jobs on my RK. It ain't rocket science - that's my day job. Read and follow the steps in the service manual and you should be fine. Have a buddy around if this is your initial foray into this level of maintenance. There are YouTube videos that cover the steps. Got to search for them. I just changed out my rear and decided to wait on changing the fronts because they still have lots of pad left.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 154
From: Buffalo, NY
the manual says "excessive scoring"
so it is a judgement call based on experience.
rotors should not have a dark "heat" marks on them or warp more that .008" measured at the outer edge.
( both of these can result from keeping HOT brake pads applied to the rotor while waiting at a stop if the brakes have been used a whole bunch)
mike
so it is a judgement call based on experience.
rotors should not have a dark "heat" marks on them or warp more that .008" measured at the outer edge.
( both of these can result from keeping HOT brake pads applied to the rotor while waiting at a stop if the brakes have been used a whole bunch)
mike
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 56,052
Likes: 88,322
From: Western South Dakota
If you have a friend who is a little more mechanically inclined, it might be a good idea to have him at least there, in case you have any glitches.
If you are unsure about it, pay an indy to do it w/you being able to watch, so that way you'll at least have an idea the next time.
If you are unsure about it, pay an indy to do it w/you being able to watch, so that way you'll at least have an idea the next time.