Noisy Tappets
Lifters are so easy to change out yourself, then you can install a real set of quality lifters along with some good adjustable pushrods, setting the lifter preload in that sweet spot around .135 and forget about it.
Engine noise has lessened. With this improvement, as soon as I can find some, I will drain all of this mix out and try some straight 50w, maybe 60w.
Lifters are so easy to change out yourself, then you can install a real set of quality lifters along with some good adjustable pushrods, setting the lifter preload in that sweet spot around .135 and forget about it.
Remove the spark plugs
Collapse the pushrod covers and hold them open with a rubber band and paper clip
Find TDC on the compression stroke on a cylinder of your choosing by rotating the rear tire in top gear
cut the pushrods with a bolt cutter and remove
remove the pushrod covers, discard all the o-rings
remove the four socket head screws holding down the lifter covers in a crosswise pattern, and remove the lifter cover
remove the anti-rotation pin
remove the lifters
Install:
replace lifters with new ones (I usually orient oil holes all facing outwards, just remember which way the lifters are oriented if you're replacing the set you just removed)
replace the anti-rotation pin
replace the lifter cover with a new gasket, torque to 100 in/lbs
install adjustable pushrods inside the pushrod tubes, making sure all the o-rings are in place (either new ones, or if you feel lucky, replace the old ones)
set your pushrods
close the pushrod tubes
replace the spark plugs.
That's essentially off the top of my head, you need to check your service manual. The manual procedure via the rocker boxes, so if you're cutting the stockers out with a bolt cutter, ignore everything having to do with the rocker boxes. Make sure the motor is on tdc before cutting the pushrods out. You should be able to rotate them with your fingers. If you can't, the valves are partially open, and the pushrods are under pressure.
Remove the spark plugs
Collapse the pushrod covers and hold them open with a rubber band and paper clip
Find TDC on the compression stroke on a cylinder of your choosing by rotating the rear tire in top gear
cut the pushrods with a bolt cutter and remove
remove the pushrod covers, discard all the o-rings
remove the four socket head screws holding down the lifter covers in a crosswise pattern, and remove the lifter cover
remove the anti-rotation pin
remove the lifters
Install:
replace lifters with new ones (I usually orient oil holes all facing outwards, just remember which way the lifters are oriented if you're replacing the set you just removed)
replace the anti-rotation pin
replace the lifter cover with a new gasket, torque to 100 in/lbs
install adjustable pushrods inside the pushrod tubes, making sure all the o-rings are in place (either new ones, or if you feel lucky, replace the old ones)
set your pushrods
close the pushrod tubes
replace the spark plugs.
That's essentially off the top of my head, you need to check your service manual. The manual procedure via the rocker boxes, so if you're cutting the stockers out with a bolt cutter, ignore everything having to do with the rocker boxes. Make sure the motor is on tdc before cutting the pushrods out. You should be able to rotate them with your fingers. If you can't, the valves are partially open, and the pushrods are under pressure.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
To me 1/2 the beauty of these hogs is their ability to make mechanical music the way they do. They never will sound like a jap bike, most of which run over head cams, in which there is no hydraulics involved at all.
I know my new one has had a lifter bleed down on me twice, so when the time comes for new cams, the lifters will be replaced for piece of mind.



