So the clutch on my Limited doesn't feel like any other clutch I have used. Coming from metric bikes I find that the clutch on my bike engages much farther out than I like/feels comfortable. And actually last week I had some clutch slippage shifting into 6th gear. I am running RedLine Primary oil and was changed about 10,000 miles ago.
Last October the bike was at the stealership getting a rear tire installed and I complained about this to the service guy. They supposedly adjusted the clutch, but didn't change any to me. Given that the clutch slipped, I am going to put her on the lift and do the adjustment myself this time. I have a service manual and have read all the threads here on the forums. So it should be pretty straight forward.
I guess my question from all of this is does anyone else notice that their clutch lets out toward the end of the lever and if so is this correct for Harley's?

Thanks,
Keith

 

how much free travel do you have in the clutch grip?

 

Approximately the width of a nickel.

 

Hey Keith,

Have you tried adjusting the play in your clutch by adjusting the cable ? Before pulling the derby cover off, I would try adjusting the cable by tightening or loosening the adjustment at the cable adjustment screw. Just turning the adjustment screw a turn or two in either direction will change the travel in the lever. You should be able to adjust the cable so it engages closer to the grip..

 

You are probably used to hydraulic clutches and this is old school hand power. The nickel wiggle room is fine IMO. I adjusted mine at the cable barrell adjuster and it felt better as it came new with too much slack. I am used to it now but I want to throw an ez pull adapter in their as I seem to hit a lot of traffic and it would help.

Good luck

 

I don't have time right now to go into much detail but I have many posts talking about this subject in other threads. In a nutshell... Assuming that you have the proper adjustment inside the derby cover (i.e., adequate freeplay) just slacken up the cable a little... That will put more freeplay into the lever and move the engagement closer to the grip. Adjust the cable until it engages where you'd like.

 

Respect to 2black1s, but...

When you utilize the cable adjuster to manipulate the position at the grip where the clutch engages/disengages, you are limiting the amount of pull that actually reaches the clutch pack. Essentially, since you can only loosen the cable instead of tightening it more than the manual specs of 1/16", your clutch plates will not separate as well as if you have the full distance of pull at the lever. The 1/16" is suggested to give you enough play so the cable does not bind when turning the handlebars either way. While it is possible you may need greater clearance at the lever, that does not mean that loosening the cable a half inch will help matters at the clutch pack.

Again, no disrespect intended to anyone's idea of how they do it.

 

Adjusting the cable is not how you correctly adjust where the clutch engages.

First, the bike must be cool when you do the clutch adjustment.

1) Slide the rubber boot off the adjustment nut assembly, in the clutch cable. Use a ½” and 9/16” wrench to loosen the jam nut back, then induce the maximum amount of slack.

2) Remove the clutch inspection cover, loosening the screws in a “star” pattern. Use a sharpee pen, and mark the inside of the cover, to indicate which hole is the one that was on top. Always install the cover so that that hole is the top.

3) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch housing.

4) Using an allen wrench, loosen (counter-clockwise) the clutch adjuster screw, which is inside the 11/16” nut you just loosened.

5) This is the critical step. Gripping the shaft of your allen wrench with just your thumb and index finger turn it back (Clockwise) just until the point that you feel the least resistance. NO MORE!

6) From that point, loosen it back (Counter-clockwise) ½ turn to one full turn. If you use the clutch to control the motor at low speeds, you should use ¾ turn. ½ turn is for “normal riders”, who use the clutch like an on/off switch. 1 turn is appropriate for a police bike in city traffic service.

NOTE: 1 turn will put the inital engagement point closer to the grip.

7) Holding the allen wrench, so the screw stays in position, tighten the clutch adjustment nut. There is a torque value, but unless you have a crow’s foot, you can only tighten it so that it’s snug. If you are using an open-end wrench, take care not to let it slip off the nut, since you will be at an angle to the nut. If you do have a crow’s foot, it calls for 8 to 10 ft.lbs.

8) Replace the cover, making sure the gasket is good. Tighten the screws in a star pattern, to 50 to 70 inch pounds of torque.

9) Tighten the cable at the jam nut assembly. Once it is roughly tightened, pull the clutch lever three times to seat the ball and ramp in the mechanism. Then tighten to the point that there is about 1/16” of free play at the lever. If you pull the cable housing out from the lever, the edge of a nickel should just fit between the shoulder of the cable, and the bracket.

Harris
Denver, CO

www.youtube.com/conedown

 

Ok. I'm back and I have a little more time now...

motorlessons post is essentially describing the factory recommended procedure. While there is nothing wrong with that procedure it does not provide much latitude for altering the "friction zone" location relative to the grip. Sure, everything else the same, 1 turn inside the cover will move the friction zone closer to the grip than 1/2 turn, but in the real world the cable adjustment will trump the inside adjustment when it comes to friction zone location. I'll say it for the millionth time... The easiest way to alter the location of the friction zone is by adjusting the cable, with the assumption that the inside the cover adjustment is within an acceptable range.

And for Def Mute's post, and likewise there is no disrespect intended, let's see if we can agree with this. In order to move the friction zone closer to the grip, one has to adjust more freeplay into the system. Agreed? Now, more freeplay can be accomplished in two areas. Inside the cover, or at the cable. Still agree? Then, regardless of how much freeplay, or lack thereof, you adjust into each, it's the combination of the two that will dictate the friction zone location. The inside adjustment and the cable adjustment work together as a system. You need to have some freeplay in both, but one can be used to supplement, or offset, the other in the context of friction zone location. Are we still in agreement?

If you've agreed to this point, here's where we'll probably derail that.
Referring to your statement "When you utilize the cable adjuster to manipulate the position at the grip where the clutch engages/disengages, you are limiting the amount of pull that actually reaches the clutch pack..." I have to disagree. While that statement on it's own is true (assuming you mean loosening the cable), it's intent (by my interpretation) is misleading since the same can be said for for over-adjusting the freeplay (too much) inside the cover. The amount of pull that ultimately reaches the clutch pack is the result of the "system" freeplay. The clutch pack doesn't know if it's inside the cover freeplay or cable freeplay. It's all the same to the clutch pack and increasing the freeplay of either will move the friction zone closer to the grip so why not do the final fine tuning of the friction zone location with the easier of the two? The cable!

 

Lever engagement can only be "Properly" brought closer to the bar by adjusting the screw in the center of the clutch pack out closer to the one full turn mark from lightly seated. At 1/2 turn it will engage further out from the bar.one full turn it will engage closer to the bar. Don't adjust it by the cable. That cable adjustment is for the free play at the lever. Need free play at the lever to take all pressure off the actuator rod..throw out bearing to some, when the clutch is released. the recommended space between ferrule and perch, about a dime keeps pressure off the rod to prevent rapid wear. This free play is just enough to keep all pressure off the rod when clutch lever is fully disengaged, but still allow plenty of quick friction zone actuation with just a little clutch lever engagement. No disrespect intended here either. That's my side of the equation! lol