I stand corrected. I have not used a MM size socket or wrench on any of my bikes yet. I appreciate you letting me know that in Fords' and Chevys there are mm sizes too. I am sorry I was mistaken I thought this was a HD forum. I was not being disrespectful or anything. No need to ask if you need a torque wrench then get on me because maybe there is a mm size on a non USA made O2 sensor. I was meaning the majority of sizes on the bike are Standard American sizes. Good luck with your project man. Just trying to help you out man.

 

Do yourself a favor and re-torque your clamps about a month from now. Been there, done that. Hope you get lucky.

 

I had to use copperseal on my jackpot mufflers so they wouldn't leak, they leaked where they were cut to fit around the pipe (if that even makes sense). I put some copperseal around the pipe and slid the mufflers over it, no more leaks

 

The instructions that came with my Power Duals lists the following tools as required:

flat blade screwdriver
1/4" and 5/16" nutdriver
1/2", 9/16", and 14mm combination wrenches
1/4", 3/16", and 5/16" Allen wrenches
snap ring pliers
foot pound torque wrench
3/8" ratchet and extensions - 1/2" socket, 1/2", 9/16", and 5/8" deep sockets

I used a universal joint adapter and needle nose pliers to pick up the flange nuts that I always seem to drop. The needle nose pliers are also useful to get the old gaskets out.

 

So you have been given good info on the tools needed. Here's a few other tips:

-With a new header system, ALWAYS remove the old exhaust port gaskets and replace with NEW OEM gaskets, NOT Screamin Eagle gaskets. Remember, OEM gaskets, one in each exhaust port. Thick side facing in. Make sure you get them seated well before you install the new header.

-Get a bottle of Permatex Silver Anti Seize at your favorite auto parts store. Use on the exhaust studs, under the nuts on the torca clamps, on the end of the header where the muffler slips on, on the threads of the heat shield clamps, etc. Keeps the extreme heat from seizing the threads and metal contact surfaces.

-Spray the exhaust studs/nuts with some Liquid Wrench or another penetrating type fluid the night BEFORE you anticipate removing the nuts. This will almost eliminate any possibility of damaging your threaded studs during your header swap. You will be amazed how good this works.

-Purchase new retainer clips. These are cheap as dirt. They also heat warp easily and you will see that when you remove your stock header. Get new flat clips for your new header. This helps when seating the header into the new gasket by exerting equal pressure all the way around for a snug airtight fit.

-The most difficult, at least for me, exhaust stud to get to use to the be front top. I use to wrestle with that thing from the right side of the bike, using wobble extensions and sockets, etc. Well, I found that the front top exhaust flange nut is easily accessible from the left front side of the bike. When I saw this I felt like a big dumb ***.

-There is a specific torque sequence for the exhaust port fasteners when installing the new header. Your new service manual will walk you through that sequence.

-DO reinspect torque after you ride the bike a few times, giving it a chance to go through a few heat cycles. The exhaust flange nuts will need snugging. A good quality inch pound torque wrench is absolutely essential if you want to do this the correct way. If you guess at it, you may become the newest member of the "I broke my exhaust port studs...what do I do now?" club. If you break one of these off, you will spend a lot more than a good torque wrench will cost in money and time getting it out and replacing it. Not to mention the frustration and down time on your scoot.

-Take your time, never get in a hurry. If something is not going right, walk away for a few minutes. Don't force anything. It is all designed to fit together, so take your time.

-There is a round gasket in the cross-under pipe where it connects to the main header. This gasket can be easily damaged. Use some silver anti seize on the inside of this gasket (coat the inside) to aid the insertion of your new header into this gasket. If you force this insertion, you WILL damage the gasket and it is not repairable. You will need a new one.

-I've seen re-used torca clamps fail and cause exhaust leaks. These clamps are not that expensive and I always replace them when going on with a new header system. Just think, you try to save $25 and be a cheapskate on clamps and you start getting decel popping and discover that your old ones are not staying tight. How much of a bitch is that going to be? Get new stuff, use new stuff, eliminates problems.

Good luck with your new project and thank you for your service over in that God forsaken place.

 

OP, here you go man. Link with pictures, instructions and a tool list.

http://www.americancustom.com/media/news/AmerCustom.pdf

 

What he said....

 

I just bought two torque wrenches by CDI; a 1/4 and 3/8 inch drive. Ordered one from Amazon and found the other cheaper on Ebay. They got good reviews on a recent thread on here. WalMart sells Stanley tools, nice finish and a lifetime guarantee if I'm not mistaken. Probably every bit as good as the Craftsman tools now days, nicer finish anyway. I've got a Stanley 1/4" ratchet that I like better than my old Craftsman ratchet. (Used it on my last two exhaust changes.) So while I'll concede his knowledge is superior to mine on the HDs, I'm gonna disagree with mkguitar in regard to WalMart tools.

 

If anyone has not suggested a strap wrench yet, I do. Handy to put twist on the old muffler without damaging it. And for lining up the new ones if they are sticky.

 

6 pack of beer, band aids for when you skin your knuckle