Thanks for the input gues new bearings it is!

 

A tight front brake when nothing has really been done to it can be caused by not having the front axle aligned (there's a proceedure with a 7/16 drill bit in the hole, in the manual and on this forum in places, too) and if the axle isn't placed just right, it's possible to have a washer hang up on an edge keeping it from going all the way in - that'll misalign the brake caliper. As far as the wheel bearings, unless you had them out and didn't put the inside spacer back, you can't really overtighten them; the inner races tighten against the spacer, and that's as far as they go and where they should be. Unless, again, you have the bearings out, and put them back in but not quite seated; then when you tighten the axle, it seats them with pressure against the inner races and could damage them. If you do replace the bearings, you may find they're harder to get out and put back in than you expect. I have one of these, a very well built tool that fits Harleys with 3/4", 1", and 25mm axles with sealed roller bearings, and it makes it easy, both removing and installing:
http://www.powersportsplace.com/sear...rd=pit%20posse

When you install the bearings, always check that the spacer is snug between the inner races; it can seem like the bearings are seated when they aren't quite there yet - you do not want to seat them that last bit with the axle nut, even if it would do it - and if it didn't seat them, you might know something was wrong because the brake rotor might not line up just right. I also put a film of never seize on the outer bearing race and in the wheel so there'll be less tendency to gall the wheel going in, and help prevent corrosion. That bearing is tight enough you don't have to worry about it spinning - and if it isn't, you need a new wheel.

What you can run into with over torquing is warping the threads on the axle or nut, or both. If that happens, you'll feel resistance trying to turn it by hand; in severe cases the nut might have to be wrenched all the way off, and that may tear some threads loose, too. If the nut turns freely by hand, I doubt you damaged anything.

 

Any idea what the rear axle torque spec is on the 09' and newer bikes?

 

I have a 2008 RoadKing Classic. I'm trying to remove the front fender to have it painted. I loosened calipers, removed axle cap bolts on right side. I had a friend put a large screwdriver through the axle hole to keep it from turning while I tried to loosen the left side axle nut. No matter how much we put into it the nut just won't crack. I'm at a standstill until I can lower the tire to get to the fender bolts.

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

 

use a breaker bar or longer 1/2" drive ratchet....it will come lose

 

Thanks for the post - I did it and it worked. I think the torque spec is around 55 ft lb. I don't think that would require a breaker bar would it?
Thanks again.

 

So had new bearings, races, spacer installed all to OEM spec's (Wine Country Choppers, great guy) (90,000, on them without maintenace, yes I know) front wheel isn't aligned correctly? Justlooking for throughts!

 

just to let you know, they stopped using the drill bit method a while back. don't remember exactly when, but my 2007 used this method, while my 2010 did not.

 

I've always thought on the newer style bikes that it is probably good PM to change the bearings as well when you change the front tire specifically.

 

Thanks, I'll have to remember that. I'm years behind the latest stuff.