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Thinking of going with apes that may require changing the brake line. Was wondering if it is a DIY on a 2010 Ultra w/ABS.
Don't want to involve the stealer....
If you go with bars that require an extended line you will have to go to the dealership to finish the bleed out. It needs to be hooked up to a scan tool and use the ABS module to get all the air out.
I have a '12 RGC and did 13' apes and there was enough line in the faring to not have to open it up
I did my 2010 Street Glide just before I took it into the dealer for a recall on the brake module... which required them to bleed and reset it. Didn't cost me anything
This is a DIY project, if using a longer abs line make sure to 1. Disconnect line at master and keep higher then abs block 2. Install new line to master and bleed
3. Install new line to abs this makes a little mess make sure not to let master go dry
This will keep air out of system
Oh and one piece of advice. Brake fluid is VERY corrosive. It will eat right through clear coat and paint and will cause chrome to pit and rust. Be extremely careful with it. I recommend keeping the tank removed until you get the line installed and bled, and I'd take extra precautions to cover anything where the fluid might leak onto.
Did mine with ABS and bled the brakes like normal. Then took to dealer for bleeding on digital tech. Dealer charged me 1/2 hour labor. Well worth it in my opinion.
I've done it without using the dealer by reverse bleeding the brakes. It's easy.
Replace the top line and then push brake fluid from a caliper up to fill the master cylinder by using a mighty vac. Then bleed like normal.
The digitech isn't necessary if your careful. Use the MityVac and bleed as normal. When you take your first ride on it you'll know right off if its right or not. If the light stays on it means that there is air in the abs unit. The brakes will still work just like non abs brakes. Also this is key.....do not turn ignition on when abs line is off. Abs unit will cycle and suck air into the abs block.
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