Front foot shift lever loose - fell down
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 719
Likes: 69
From: Waxhaw NC
I am the OP. This turned out be a very easy fix. New shaft was $21.00. Parts guys gave a good tip which was to leave one of the levers on as a way to pull the shaft out rather than tapping from behind.
Just remember the order of which lever goes on first, as well as the proper angles.
Just remember the order of which lever goes on first, as well as the proper angles.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: illinois
it happened to me replaced the bolt with a shoulder bolt so the threads and the spline won't match and slide of from vibration also had the lever on the trans come off did the same thing have been an automotive mech for years and use the same kind of set up on steering shafts which us a pinch bolt also that is shouldered so far it fixed problem the old bolts were tight had to use a vise to loosen bolt total cost for repair was about 5.00
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,178
Likes: 5
From: Central Calif
yep had it happen -- seems to me on mine they bolt wasn't tight enough and the splines just wore out. I replaced the shaft and both stock shift levers -- made sure they were tight and haven't had a problem in 80,000 miles
but I do keep it checked -- remember T-klock
but I do keep it checked -- remember T-klock
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,525
Likes: 57,082
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
My toe and heel levers were loose from the factory, as was the arm on the transmission. The factory seems to use some sort of lock tite which makes tightening the bolts difficult, perhaps fooling some that they are tight. If you never have, check front and back levers for tightness before this happens to you. If PROPERLY tightened, the factory levers will go the life of the vehicle. The entire front lever/shaft assembly can be serviced or replaced without having to remove any of the primary case. Some people have removed the front shaft and drilled a hole in the shaft support tube and installed a grease zerk. Years ago, the factory put zerks there.
The shift rod ball joints are notorious for failing somewhere around the 30,000 mile mark. Numerous "war stories" have been written about coming home from a trip with a cable tie holding things together. Either do a pro-active ball joint replacement or change to heim joint rod ends. My parts guy found the heim joints and the different mounting bolts and spacers needed to make them work. Apparently the heim ends came from the factory on one model or there was a kit he knew about. Sorry I don't have the parts list any longer or I'd post it.
The shift rod ball joints are notorious for failing somewhere around the 30,000 mile mark. Numerous "war stories" have been written about coming home from a trip with a cable tie holding things together. Either do a pro-active ball joint replacement or change to heim joint rod ends. My parts guy found the heim joints and the different mounting bolts and spacers needed to make them work. Apparently the heim ends came from the factory on one model or there was a kit he knew about. Sorry I don't have the parts list any longer or I'd post it.
Road Captain
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 689
Likes: 6
From: Glen Rose TX
At some point don't we have to assume responsibility for performing basic maintenance tasks.... like tightening up shifters occassionally??
I think I have had to do this on every motorcycle I've owned for 40 years now
I think I have had to do this on every motorcycle I've owned for 40 years now
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
