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Question about testing stator

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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 10:38 PM
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Default Question about testing stator

I believe this is the plug for the stator; the wires from this connector go into the engine case as shown in the picture.



Both of these connection points have continuity to frame ground. This means the stator is bad, correct?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 10:41 PM
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Is there a better stator to replace the stock one with? I heard there are ones with more amperage. Is this true.?
 

Last edited by Road Star; Sep 28, 2013 at 11:26 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 06:23 AM
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Go to the DIY Electrical section, where there are Stickys on checking your charging circuit. They should help you diagnose the problem, if you don't have a service manual.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 07:37 AM
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What bike, year do you have? Continuity to ground means shorted out on either of the wires from the stator. My 02 RK had a 38A stock replaced that with a 45 A and burnt that up also. Went with a 50A 3 phase hopefully my amp wont kill this one
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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It's a 2001 Road King FLHPEI; hopefully, it doesn't make a difference that it's a police bike.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by shakrr
What bike, year do you have? Continuity to ground means shorted out on either of the wires from the stator. My 02 RK had a 38A stock replaced that with a 45 A and burnt that up also. Went with a 50A 3 phase hopefully my amp wont kill this one
Where did you buy your stator? Cycle Electric?

I think I am just going to replace the stator and the regulator. The bike has 28K miles, not that much. I figure, why not? Probably better with new components.
 

Last edited by Road Star; Sep 29, 2013 at 08:53 AM.
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 12:52 PM
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And, do I need special tools for this stator removal? I know the manual states to use a tool, just wondering if it is necessary.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 03:36 PM
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I just did my 98 ultra classic before i sold it. it isnt the stator that you need the tool for. it is the rotor. what i did on mine rather than getting tool. you should have two slots on opposite sides of the rotor. A round opening that narrows to like a slot (looks like the back of a picture frame). What i did is use two vice grips and clamped a screw in each. put the head of the screw in the slot and just pulled and wiggled until it came off. its just the magnets holding it on once you take chain and sprocket off. worked for me. getting the new rotor on is just a little tricky because the magnets want to pull it in before you have the teeth on the spline lined up. Not that tough though and i'm not a great mechanic.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 03:49 PM
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Read this thread beginning on page 3
 
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Old Sep 29, 2013 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Road Star
And, do I need special tools for this stator removal? I know the manual states to use a tool, just wondering if it is necessary.
yes cycle electronics and you need a puller of some sort to get the old rotor off
the stock rotor has strong magnets mine had threaded holes 5/16 bolts for the puller to remove the new 50A rotor went on easy the kit comes with stator, rotor, and regulator
 
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