Headers...
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 10
From: San Angelo, Texas
Headers...
My insurance company has decided to write me a check for a new tank and new headers...and for another day at the Dyno shop. Those folks at Allstate are such idiots...but I'm not arguing any more, I'm taking the money and having some fun with the bike with it!
I really like my Rush Racing ceramic true dual headers, but thinking that maybe it's a good time to go to a V&H Power Dual or the Jackpot equivalent. Probably in black (since I have a set of black monster ovals and a set of black RR Big Louie's, both with chrome tips)...
As with anything, YMMV, and I'm sure that everyone can tell all of us why the one they run is the best...so since I have OPM to spend ($1895.00) I'm open to hearing the pros and cons of the x-pipe headers out there. I've already got the breather setup and the SERT though changing that might be an option as well...or should I pick up a used set of 255se cams and spend the money there? And if the cam route, I'm looking for monster low end pull that doesn't quit until 4500rpm ++
So, if you had $1500 to throw at your bike, what would it be?
I really like my Rush Racing ceramic true dual headers, but thinking that maybe it's a good time to go to a V&H Power Dual or the Jackpot equivalent. Probably in black (since I have a set of black monster ovals and a set of black RR Big Louie's, both with chrome tips)...
As with anything, YMMV, and I'm sure that everyone can tell all of us why the one they run is the best...so since I have OPM to spend ($1895.00) I'm open to hearing the pros and cons of the x-pipe headers out there. I've already got the breather setup and the SERT though changing that might be an option as well...or should I pick up a used set of 255se cams and spend the money there? And if the cam route, I'm looking for monster low end pull that doesn't quit until 4500rpm ++
So, if you had $1500 to throw at your bike, what would it be?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
The only thing with the PD's is clearance. The cover on the X pipe may hit HARD on rt turns , esp if the bike is lowered.
i hit on the corner of my street hard enough to relieve traction from the rear tire.
2011 FLHTK, lowered 1" front and rear, the corner does have a dip in it, but I have taken that turn hundreds of times on dozens of bikes and only hit once.
2.) the clamp on the crossunder must be oriented so that the excess threaded road can't hang up on a speedbump or curbing. either rotate it or cut off the excess rod after torquing
Mike
i hit on the corner of my street hard enough to relieve traction from the rear tire.
2011 FLHTK, lowered 1" front and rear, the corner does have a dip in it, but I have taken that turn hundreds of times on dozens of bikes and only hit once.
2.) the clamp on the crossunder must be oriented so that the excess threaded road can't hang up on a speedbump or curbing. either rotate it or cut off the excess rod after torquing
Mike
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 10
From: San Angelo, Texas
The only thing with the PD's is clearance. The cover on the X pipe may hit HARD on rt turns , esp if the bike is lowered.
i hit on the corner of my street hard enough to relieve traction from the rear tire.
2011 FLHTK, lowered 1" front and rear, the corner does have a dip in it, but I have taken that turn hundreds of times on dozens of bikes and only hit once.
2.) the clamp on the crossunder must be oriented so that the excess threaded road can't hang up on a speedbump or curbing. either rotate it or cut off the excess rod after torquing
Mike
i hit on the corner of my street hard enough to relieve traction from the rear tire.
2011 FLHTK, lowered 1" front and rear, the corner does have a dip in it, but I have taken that turn hundreds of times on dozens of bikes and only hit once.
2.) the clamp on the crossunder must be oriented so that the excess threaded road can't hang up on a speedbump or curbing. either rotate it or cut off the excess rod after torquing
Mike
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 7,439
Likes: 884
From: 'Noke, VA
Jackpot 2:1:2 FTW.
Stainless steel construction, lifetime warranty, best customer service in the industry. There's a reason there are so many FuelMoto/Jackpot fanboys here....Jamie and his staff have earned them.
Stainless steel construction, lifetime warranty, best customer service in the industry. There's a reason there are so many FuelMoto/Jackpot fanboys here....Jamie and his staff have earned them.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 143
From: Santa Cruz
Xpipes do have a performance edge over most TDs on a bagger. I doubt there is much performance difference between VH/FM/Fullsack/Drago xpipes. I don't like the look of VH Xpipe plus it seems to have clearance issues. I do like that FM uses stainless plus customer service seems top notch. I got a deal on a lightly used Fullsack B header and couldn't be happier or more surprised with the performance gain and heat loss over my stock noncat '09 header.
A good cam will make a bigger difference than all the A/C and pipes out there.
If I had $1500 to throw at a stage 1 103, I'd go with Andrews 57 (maybe thinner head gasket), FM/Fullsack/Drago header and a proper tune.
Good shopping!
A good cam will make a bigger difference than all the A/C and pipes out there.
If I had $1500 to throw at a stage 1 103, I'd go with Andrews 57 (maybe thinner head gasket), FM/Fullsack/Drago header and a proper tune.
Good shopping!
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
No, I use stock 2009 no cat headers- for my motor, there is no performance advantage to a header swap.
I leave my bikes at stage 1 for longevity.
my Pal stores his 2011 FLHTK with me in the winters, I ride it some when it is here.
He has the PD's that I scratched up.
He went to V&H based on his good experiences in the past and an inability to wrench on his bike. He needed an off the shelf system that a shop could install.
I think the fit and finish of teh V&H stuff is great, but there are the 2 issues I outlines above.
The remark on the clamp position is based on my Pal about tearing the header system off the bike when going over a speedbump- the clamp was oriented so that it hung low like a hook and grabbed onto the speed bump.
pretty much anything bolted onto a bike shouldn;t reduce clearance or lean angle- the cover on the X pipe being hard mounted can relieve traction from the tires- unlike the floorboards which if they contact will move up out of the way
Mike
I leave my bikes at stage 1 for longevity.
my Pal stores his 2011 FLHTK with me in the winters, I ride it some when it is here.
He has the PD's that I scratched up.
He went to V&H based on his good experiences in the past and an inability to wrench on his bike. He needed an off the shelf system that a shop could install.
I think the fit and finish of teh V&H stuff is great, but there are the 2 issues I outlines above.
The remark on the clamp position is based on my Pal about tearing the header system off the bike when going over a speedbump- the clamp was oriented so that it hung low like a hook and grabbed onto the speed bump.
pretty much anything bolted onto a bike shouldn;t reduce clearance or lean angle- the cover on the X pipe being hard mounted can relieve traction from the tires- unlike the floorboards which if they contact will move up out of the way
Mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Oct 8, 2013 at 09:50 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,566
Likes: 55
From: Londonderry, NH
My insurance company has decided to write me a check for a new tank and new headers...and for another day at the Dyno shop. Those folks at Allstate are such idiots...but I'm not arguing any more, I'm taking the money and having some fun with the bike with it!
I really like my Rush Racing ceramic true dual headers, but thinking that maybe it's a good time to go to a V&H Power Dual or the Jackpot equivalent. Probably in black (since I have a set of black monster ovals and a set of black RR Big Louie's, both with chrome tips)...
As with anything, YMMV, and I'm sure that everyone can tell all of us why the one they run is the best...so since I have OPM to spend ($1895.00) I'm open to hearing the pros and cons of the x-pipe headers out there. I've already got the breather setup and the SERT though changing that might be an option as well...or should I pick up a used set of 255se cams and spend the money there? And if the cam route, I'm looking for monster low end pull that doesn't quit until 4500rpm ++
So, if you had $1500 to throw at your bike, what would it be?
I really like my Rush Racing ceramic true dual headers, but thinking that maybe it's a good time to go to a V&H Power Dual or the Jackpot equivalent. Probably in black (since I have a set of black monster ovals and a set of black RR Big Louie's, both with chrome tips)...
As with anything, YMMV, and I'm sure that everyone can tell all of us why the one they run is the best...so since I have OPM to spend ($1895.00) I'm open to hearing the pros and cons of the x-pipe headers out there. I've already got the breather setup and the SERT though changing that might be an option as well...or should I pick up a used set of 255se cams and spend the money there? And if the cam route, I'm looking for monster low end pull that doesn't quit until 4500rpm ++
So, if you had $1500 to throw at your bike, what would it be?
I do like the Fuel Moto Jackpot X-Pipe. Beautifully made and performs very well. Fullsac also makes a good x-pipe and have a more cost friendly version available. Either of these should work well.
I would definitely do the cams...but I'm not sure I'd go with the S/E 255.
Its an EPA cam and thou some like it, it shuts off early. It may make it to 4500 but I doubt it, torque falls off rapidly after 4000. Andrews has some very good (better) alternatives. I really like the 48's in my 96". Tons of low end and midrange torque and improves output all the way out to redline. The 57's are also a good choice and may have an edge in a 103.
Parts cost for a cam change isn't huge. Cams and adjustable push rods run about $370 thru discount dealers. Bearings and gaskets less than $50. If you change lifters (and I would on a 2012) Gaterman 1021's are $120/set and are highly rated. They work very well.
Look at some dyno curves to decide which cam you like. Your breather should be fine.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 366
Likes: 1
From: Galveston, Tx
Jackpot 2:1:2 FTW.
Stainless steel construction, lifetime warranty, best customer service in the industry. There's a reason there are so many FuelMoto/Jackpot fanboys here....Jamie and his staff have earned them.
Stainless steel construction, lifetime warranty, best customer service in the industry. There's a reason there are so many FuelMoto/Jackpot fanboys here....Jamie and his staff have earned them.