I know I read about it somewhere but can't seem to find the thread. I tried the search but the hundreds of threads distracted my searching....

I am looking for the instructions for installing the front wheel using the drill bit method. I have the manual but it really doesn't say anything about it.

I'll be pulling my rear tire for a needed tire change and I ordered the front tire and will do it as well.

Anyone have a link to the How To thread?

2013 FLHTCU no ABS

Also, if you know off the top of your head, what size sockets needed for the rear wheel? I want to make sure I have the correct size before I go pick up a push gauge in the morning for the belt tension.

 

I'm lost.

Remove front wheel by removing calipers, then the axle bolt, wheel will fall out, reverse to put it back on. I've never used a drill bit?????

 

Maybe I'm lost, and is most likely.... I thought I had read about using a drill bit in some hole to make sure the wheel is centered.

 

Not sure about your newer bikes, but on my 04 you use a 5/16 or 7/16 drill bit to make sure the wheel is aligned properly. You will know because the front brake doesn't drag, as much.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...installed.html

 

I think your wanting to know this info:

Instructions

1 Loosen the front axle nut with an SAE ratchet wrench if it not already loose. Loosen but do not remove the right-sided slider cap nuts with a SAE ratchet wrench, as well.

2 Insert a long screwdriver through the hole on the right side of the axle. This screwdriver will act as a handle to keep the front axle from rotating during tightening. Tighten the axle nut to a torque value of 50-55 foot pounds with a torque wrench while holding the axle stationary with the screwdriver.

3 Remove the screwdriver from the axle and insert a 7/16-inch drill bit into the hole. Pull the right-front fork toward the outside of the motorcycle until it just comes into contact with the drill bit. Tighten the slider caps to a torque value of 5-11 ft-lbs. Remove the drill bit from the axle hole.

 

don't use the drill bit on a 2013. nevets61 post is right on. i just want to add if you have abs (i know you don't but others might find it useful), you really need to use the screwdriver to hold your axle in place. when you torque the nut, if you don't hold the axle, then it will spin and the abs sensor will not stay in the position that it should.

 

2013 Front:

1. See Figure 2-3. If removed, install brake discs using new
screws (12). Tighten screws in a crosswise pattern to 16-
24 ft-lbs (21.7-32.5 Nm).
2. Place wheel into position with the valve stem on the right
side of motorcycle.
3. Apply a light coat of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to axle,
bearing bores and bore of spacer sleeve.
NOTE
See Figure 2-4. Be sure that grooves on external spacer(s),
or index pin on front WSS (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard
side. If motorcycle is not ABS equipped, external spacers
on left and right side of wheel hub are interchangeable.
4. Slide axle through right fork slider and external spacer into
wheel hub.
5. Push axle through front WSS (if ABS equipped) or second
external spacer, and left fork slider.
6. Install flat washer and axle nut.
7. ABS models: Rotate WSS until it makes contact with rear
of fork slider. Back off just enough to maintain clearance
between the WSS wire stem and fork slider.
8. Hold axle stationary and tighten axle nut to 70-75 ft-lbs
(94.9-101.7 Nm).
NOTE
When securing the axle holder, equally tighten the nuts so the
gaps, front and rear, are approximately the same.
9. Push and hold right fork slider inboard until it contacts
external spacer and equally tighten axle holder nuts to
132-180 in-lbs (14.9-20.3 Nm).

 

2013 rear:

Always install brake disc in its original position.
1. If removed, install brake disc in its original position using
new screws. Tighten screws in a crosswise pattern to 30-
45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm).
2. Verify that sprocket is square and fully seated in bowl area
of wheel.
3. Place wheel in rear fork. Install belt over sprocket and
slide the wheel back.
Never bend belt forward into a loop smaller than the drive
sprocket diameter. Never bend belt into a reverse loop.
Over bending can damage belt resulting in premature
failure, which could cause loss of control and death or
serious injury. (00339a)
4. Seat the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the
rear fork.
5. Apply a light coat of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to axle,
bearing bores and bore of spacer sleeve.
6. Slide axle through left side of rear fork, external spacer
(thin), sprocket and into wheel hub.
NOTE
Grooves on external spacer, or index pin on rear WSS (if ABS
equipped), must be on the outboard side.
7. Push axle through rear WSS (if ABS equipped) or external
spacer (thick), caliper bracket and right side of rear fork.
8. Rotate axle so the flat on the threaded end is topside. With
the cam forward, install adjuster cam on the end of the
axle.
9. Apply a light coat of ANTI-SEIZE LUBRICANT to the
inboard face of the cone nut avoiding contact with threads.
Install cone nut on axle. Finger tighten only.

10. ABS equipped: Route sensor cable forward and outboard
of caliper bracket. Continue forward following the top of
the rear fork. Rotate rear WSS counterclockwise until index
pin makes contact with caliper bracket at point shown in
Figure 2-7.
11. Tighten the cone nut to a preliminary torque of 15-20 ftlbs
(20-27 Nm). The final torque will be done during the
belt adjustment procedure.
12. Install the brake caliper and tighten screws to 43-48 ft-lbs
(58.3-65.1 Nm).
13. Secure rear WSS cable to the brake hose with the conduit
clip located approximately 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of
the brake hose crimp.
14. Adjust drive belt using BELT TENSION GAUGE (Part
No. HD-35381A). See 1.12 DRIVE BELT AND
SPROCKETS.
15. Install a new E-clip on right side of axle with the flat side
out.
16. Install the left side lower saddlebag support rail if removed.
See 2.27 SADDLEBAG SERVICE, Saddlebag
Guard/Support Rail.

 

the drill bit method was last used on the 2007 models after that it is what Rode Runr said