swapping to chain drive
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Joined: May 2010
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From: houston
swapping to chain drive
im thinking about doing the swap on my new bike.
looking for a little beter gearing and think that since this 70 tooth rear is unobtanium right now in cush drive bikes, ill just do the chain swap.
ive done it before on non cush bikes....
any do this wap already? im looking for a little better gearing while i am doing the swap so i am leaning towards going with a smaller than 21 tooth trans sprocket.
thinking about a 17/55 combo. i ride two up most of the time
looking for a little beter gearing and think that since this 70 tooth rear is unobtanium right now in cush drive bikes, ill just do the chain swap.
ive done it before on non cush bikes....
any do this wap already? im looking for a little better gearing while i am doing the swap so i am leaning towards going with a smaller than 21 tooth trans sprocket.
thinking about a 17/55 combo. i ride two up most of the time
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,132
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From: NorCal
Drago's sells a conversion that reuses your stock cush drive. There are a couple other offerings, but the names are slipping my mind at the moment.
My buddy did it in '09 on his '09 FLHX. It was a PITA, using a Softail hub on a PM rear wheel with some machined spacers and an offset front sprocket. The "plug and play" version using the cush drive is what I'll do on my Road Glide.
Either way the chain adjustment sucks. The axle is either too far forward, or too far back. So you need this:
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/swingarm.html
ON EDIT-
Here's one that I couldn't remember:
http://www.pmfronline.com/bagger-chain-drive.php
My buddy did it in '09 on his '09 FLHX. It was a PITA, using a Softail hub on a PM rear wheel with some machined spacers and an offset front sprocket. The "plug and play" version using the cush drive is what I'll do on my Road Glide.
Either way the chain adjustment sucks. The axle is either too far forward, or too far back. So you need this:
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/swingarm.html
ON EDIT-
Here's one that I couldn't remember:
http://www.pmfronline.com/bagger-chain-drive.php
Last edited by JCleary; Nov 18, 2013 at 01:22 PM.
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From: Bedford UK
Well a 17T is way too small! Chain efficiency plummets as tooth count goes down, due to the extreme wrapping of the chain around such a small sprocket. The 24T shown on the link JC gave is more like it. And then 17/55 is way off as well! That corresponds to 3.23:1, which is around the overall gearing of a dresser, not the belt/secondary drive.
So let's start again. What would you like to achieve with your gearing change? Leave us to work out the sizes that will do that!
So let's start again. What would you like to achieve with your gearing change? Leave us to work out the sizes that will do that!
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,132
Likes: 25
From: NorCal
Well a 17T is way too small! Chain efficiency plummets as tooth count goes down, due to the extreme wrapping of the chain around such a small sprocket. The 24T shown on the link JC gave is more like it. And then 17/55 is way off as well! That corresponds to 3.23:1, which is around the overall gearing of a dresser, not the belt/secondary drive.
So let's start again. What would you like to achieve with your gearing change? Leave us to work out the sizes that will do that!
So let's start again. What would you like to achieve with your gearing change? Leave us to work out the sizes that will do that!
Personally for a drag-racing bagger I think a 5-speed is superior. It's hard for a 6-speed twinkie to outrun a 5-speed, all other things being equal.
Last edited by JCleary; Nov 18, 2013 at 03:47 PM.
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Don't remember what tooth it is though.
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
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From: Bedford UK
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