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1000 mile 'service'

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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by oakmossy
I read the shop manual for my 2014 flhxs and looks pretty easy to do the 1000 service.
Got a couple of questions
1. is this laundry list of parts correct? For first time I will buy all hd parts and fluids.
- oil filter
- oil
- three o rings for the three sump bolts
- derby gasket
- paste teflon sealer for sump bolt threads
- oil filter wrech with opening for crank sensor

I am going with formula + oil in the primary just from what I have read as far as shifting smoothness, syn 3 for engine and tranny.

Where can I get the hd tool that allows for torquing the rear axel without taking the muffler off?

Just curious, anyone with experience have seen that the 'critical bolts listed' needed to be tightened at 1000 miles?
tks Ferd
I have an 07 but have never had to replace the derby cover gasket. It is an O ring type of seal. Just be careful, clean out the cover grooves and torque to specs. Price wise they are also very proud of that seal. On a side note when I first removed the outer primary cover I bought a new gasket for $35.00. The old one looked good so I put it on the shelf and let it dry out. Now when I need to remove the outer primary I just rotate the gaskets and have never had a leak.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 07:37 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Sacarriker
Got ripped off today on my 1000 mile service on my 2013 road glide ultra. Had planned to do it myself but jumped on my bike at 10:00 pm last night and went to Beaumont where my mother had been taken to the hospital with a broken hip. I was at 1086 miles when I left and would have been at 1200 before I got back home so I went to cowboy harley in Beaumont which was a couple of blocks from the hospital. Paid $335 for the service and when they gave me my bike back the technician had left his invoice in the bike with hours and supplies equaling $97. He realized he had left it in the bike and came to get it. I said I noticed he had written his work up as costing $97 and told him they had charged me $335. He smirked and said he didn't know why and walked off. I will never have the dealer do service again. That's pure bull ****!
Not sure I get your rant.

Most have a fairly good idea as to what the dealer is going to charge before the bike is turned over to them for just about any kind of service.

Who cares what the tech writes on a piece of paper? Could have been $2 or $2000...so long as they do the work agreed on and close to the price they quoted.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 07:50 PM
  #13  
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Yes they told me up front what it would cost. They said they were going to do a 1000 mile service. All they did was the fluids and charged me 335 and called it a 1000 mile service. This was not something written on a piece of paper. It was his instructions. It was instructions to change the fluids with hourly rate and cost of supplies. They created another invoice for me to pay that just said 1000 mile service. He only changed the fluids nothing else.
 

Last edited by Sacarriker; Nov 18, 2013 at 07:54 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 08:19 PM
  #14  
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Derby cover can be re-used several times...I mean like up to 10-15 times... if it doesn't leak, re--use it...I am on my 2nd one on my 07 at 80000 miles....I have always used pipe dope on my 3 drain plugs and a O-ring...I had a leak one time with a new O-ring and i started to use pipe dope...I wouldn't go with 20w50 in the tranny... Formula + or Gear oil.
Take everything you see in here on these posts and blend it togather then make your own mind up... The 1000 mile service is really bullshit... Fluid change....that was pretty much it...Maybe the odd Dealer service dept. actually goes over the bike like they should....
 
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Old Nov 18, 2013 | 08:36 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by KCFLHRC
No thread sealer, just the HD o-ring. If the o-ring squishes out then you are over tightening.
I agree that the thread sealer is not necessary but your statement on the o-ring squishing out is absolutely not true. Torque has nothing to do with it. You could tighten the plug until you stripped the threads and it wouldn't have any effect on the o-ring. If the o-ring is being extruded it can only be caused by 1) the incorrect sized o-ring; 2) incorrect dimensioning of the o-ring recess on either the plug or the bore; 3) lack of lubricant on the o-ring.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 09:17 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
I agree that the thread sealer is not necessary but your statement on the o-ring squishing out is absolutely not true. Torque has nothing to do with it. You could tighten the plug until you stripped the threads and it wouldn't have any effect on the o-ring. If the o-ring is being extruded it can only be caused by 1) the incorrect sized o-ring; 2) incorrect dimensioning of the o-ring recess on either the plug or the bore; 3) lack of lubricant on the o-ring.
Completely agree! I torque to specs, and I have never had good luck with the factory recommended O-rings. Have found the #207 O-ring from Home Depot to be perfect, and withstood the heat from California to Sturgis a year ago. They work! Also like the price!
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 03:48 PM
  #17  
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I don't have a 2014, but isn't greasing the steering head bearing part of the 1,000 service? It is shown in my 2010 service manual.

I stay away from Teflon tape thread sealant on automotive applications because the fine fibers that remain in the threads the next time you take it apart might get into the oiling system and block something up. The Teflon paste "pipe dope" would be better but the o-ring ought to be adequate without any sealant.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #18  
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I have reused the O rings and primary gasket w/out sealers numerous times with no leaks. If they look good I use them again. I dont wait for service intervals to check critical fasteners, I grab the proper tool ad check them periodically so eerything gets checked every couple of thousand miles. I use hd's primary juice, mobil 1 in engine & redline shockproof in tranny. If you havent had the oil filter off yet be prepared for a struggle.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 07:00 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Sacarriker
Got ripped off today on my 1000 mile service on my 2013 road glide ultra. Had planned to do it myself but jumped on my bike at 10:00 pm last night and went to Beaumont where my mother had been taken to the hospital with a broken hip. I was at 1086 miles when I left and would have been at 1200 before I got back home so I went to cowboy harley in Beaumont which was a couple of blocks from the hospital. Paid $335 for the service and when they gave me my bike back the technician had left his invoice in the bike with hours and supplies equaling $97. He realized he had left it in the bike and came to get it. I said I noticed he had written his work up as costing $97 and told him they had charged me $335. He smirked and said he didn't know why and walked off. I will never have the dealer do service again. That's pure bull ****!
Tell me about it! Had my 1k done last Friday mainly because the dealer gave me the oh "to keep your warranty intact we have to do the 1k service". Well $299 later for a damn oil change and a check list...
 
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Old Nov 19, 2013 | 07:02 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Dale_K
I don't have a 2014, but isn't greasing the steering head bearing part of the 1,000 service? It is shown in my 2010 service manual.

I stay away from Teflon tape thread sealant on automotive applications because the fine fibers that remain in the threads the next time you take it apart might get into the oiling system and block something up. The Teflon paste "pipe dope" would be better but the o-ring ought to be adequate without any sealant.
I asked the service writer about the neck bearings and the 2014 schedule has them do to check at 15k if I remember correctly. I know it was above 10k which I thought was a little strange.
 
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