Oil temperature gauge problem- need help
#1
Oil temperature gauge problem- need help
My 2010 Classic has had a oil temp gauge since a month after I bought it. I switched to silver gauges yesterday. Here is the problem:
The 2010 gauge had posts so the sensor's harness has crimp on ring ends. The new gauge takes a plug. I need the plug to splice my sensor's harness to. The dealer can't seem to help.
Anyone been through this before?
The 2010 gauge had posts so the sensor's harness has crimp on ring ends. The new gauge takes a plug. I need the plug to splice my sensor's harness to. The dealer can't seem to help.
Anyone been through this before?
#2
#3
Yes- I got this in my kit. But it doesn't plug into the gauge, it won't fit. It must plug into a jumper. A short piece that plugs into the gauge...
Consequently, I just left the harness I already had on the bike. Because I need the piece that plugs into the gauge. I can splice it to the existing harness where the ring ends are.
Consequently, I just left the harness I already had on the bike. Because I need the piece that plugs into the gauge. I can splice it to the existing harness where the ring ends are.
#4
Yes- I got this in my kit. But it doesn't plug into the gauge, it won't fit. It must plug into a jumper. A short piece that plugs into the gauge... Consequently, I just left the harness I already had on the bike. Because I need the piece that plugs into the gauge. I can splice it to the existing harness where the ring ends are.
#5
What I received in the kit is a 2-wire harness (black and yellow wires). One end plugs in to the sensor in the block. IF the other end WOULD plug in to the gauge, where would the 12v power come from to illuminate the gauge?
What am I missing?
There IS a jumper wire 32806-00 in the kit but it's also a 2-wire harness (brown with green tracer and green with yellow tracer). I am assuming this connects to give the gauge power.
If I am right then there's a jumper that would go into the gauge with 2 plugs on it.......
What am I missing?
There IS a jumper wire 32806-00 in the kit but it's also a 2-wire harness (brown with green tracer and green with yellow tracer). I am assuming this connects to give the gauge power.
If I am right then there's a jumper that would go into the gauge with 2 plugs on it.......
Last edited by HD32141; 12-16-2013 at 05:12 PM.
#6
Normally, you would use the lead used for the air temp gauge and sensor to complete the connections. The connector that plugs into the back of the air temp gauge (the gauge which is usually removed to make a hole for the oil temp gauge) is supposed to plug into the rear of your new oil temp gauge. The other end of that lead is unplugged from the air temp sensor (air temp sensor located on the left front upper frame) and then plugged into the lead coming up from the oil temp sensor in your oil pan.
Your oil temp gauge will have 1/4" spade terminals on the rear.....the top set for the bulb in the meter and the bottom three for the signal from the oil temp sensor. Polarity markers are beside the terminals so you can get positive and negative correct for the meter movement feed. Polarity does not matter for the bulb.
If your current connections are ring terminals, then simply cut them off and change them to female 1/4 spade connectors and you can hook them right up to the rear of the meter.
Your oil temp gauge will have 1/4" spade terminals on the rear.....the top set for the bulb in the meter and the bottom three for the signal from the oil temp sensor. Polarity markers are beside the terminals so you can get positive and negative correct for the meter movement feed. Polarity does not matter for the bulb.
If your current connections are ring terminals, then simply cut them off and change them to female 1/4 spade connectors and you can hook them right up to the rear of the meter.
Last edited by Lowcountry Joe; 12-16-2013 at 06:14 PM.
#7
Normally, you would use the lead used for the air temp gauge and sensor to complete the connections. The connector that plugs into the back of the air temp gauge
Your oil temp gauge will have 1/4" spade terminals on the rear.....the top set for the bulb in the meter and the bottom three for the signal from the oil temp sensor. Polarity markers are beside the terminals so you can get positive and negative correct for the meter movement feed. Polarity does not matter for the bulb.
If your current connections are ring terminals, then simply cut them off and change them to female 1/4 spade connectors and you can hook them right up to the rear of the meter.
Your oil temp gauge will have 1/4" spade terminals on the rear.....the top set for the bulb in the meter and the bottom three for the signal from the oil temp sensor. Polarity markers are beside the terminals so you can get positive and negative correct for the meter movement feed. Polarity does not matter for the bulb.
If your current connections are ring terminals, then simply cut them off and change them to female 1/4 spade connectors and you can hook them right up to the rear of the meter.
the gauge I had only had 3 posts with nuts on them. You are saying 5 connections? I thought this.
Can I just buy the plug that goes to the gauge?
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#8
#9
Sure you can if you research the plug and then purchase it from an electronics supply store. You have already said that HD is useless to help you. But if it were me, i would say to hell with the damn plug and solder on some 1/4" spade connectors and be done with it in about 10 minutes.
#10
Here's a link to the pdf instructions if it helps answer any questions.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...structions.pdf
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...structions.pdf