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From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by Retrop
... Voltage regulators and stators come to mind.
The ECU could include an AC voltage detection (from an open regulator diode) and display an error code.
When part of the stator gets damaged it becomes less efficient but the regulator will still output DC voltage and not disturb the battery.
hmm, I use the battery tender and another unit ( craftsman) on my bikes- if the connection is "open" such as a blown fuse or not plugged in, the device doesn't show a full charge...it flashes red
mike
Something is up if your tender shows good with a blown fuse...
First-Hell no I would not try to charge that way! I have my hands on the cable. As soon as I here it start; I unhook a cable.
Second- always check your equipment when possible. I never take a reading at full face value of anything electronic.
that's not what he said. if your battery is very discharged, more than just your bike won't start discharged, and you jump start it, then even after you've removed the cables, the charging system on your bike is going to go into overdrive trying to charge the dead battery. that's what kills your stator.
From: Annemasse (border of Geneva-Switzerland) facing Mt-Blanc.
Originally Posted by skratch
that's not what he said. if your battery is very discharged, more than just your bike won't start discharged, and you jump start it, then even after you've removed the cables, the charging system on your bike is going to go into overdrive trying to charge the dead battery. that's what kills your stator.
The magnetic field being constant (magnets), do you think stator wires should burn if 1 or more phases are short or under full load?
A simple current limiter would then be welcome.
Best way to charge the battery is to take the bike out on the highway for a half hour or more. Get the stator cranking. Clears condensation out of the engine too. (you should get at least 5 years out of any battery if you ride the thing)
Best way to charge the battery is to take the bike out on the highway for a half hour or more. Get the stator cranking. Clears condensation out of the engine too. (you should get at least 5 years out of any battery if you ride the thing)
on my 07, that i put 40,000 miles on it in 3-1/2 years, still had the original battery in it when i traded it in. my 2010, had 25,000 and just a little less than 2 years when the original battery went **** up.
I ''ride'' my bike and have not had a battery last more than 3 yrs. I use tenders and feel like that helps a lot. Probably short life span due to extreme heat here in Fl.
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