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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 01:40 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Retrop
... Voltage regulators and stators come to mind.
The ECU could include an AC voltage detection (from an open regulator diode) and display an error code.
When part of the stator gets damaged it becomes less efficient but the regulator will still output DC voltage and not disturb the battery.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2013 | 10:00 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
hmm, I use the battery tender and another unit ( craftsman) on my bikes- if the connection is "open" such as a blown fuse or not plugged in, the device doesn't show a full charge...it flashes red

mike
Something is up if your tender shows good with a blown fuse...
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 01:34 AM
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First-Hell no I would not try to charge that way! I have my hands on the cable. As soon as I here it start; I unhook a cable.

Second- always check your equipment when possible. I never take a reading at full face value of anything electronic.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 06:47 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by banjoplayer2
First-Hell no I would not try to charge that way! I have my hands on the cable. As soon as I here it start; I unhook a cable.

Second- always check your equipment when possible. I never take a reading at full face value of anything electronic.
that's not what he said. if your battery is very discharged, more than just your bike won't start discharged, and you jump start it, then even after you've removed the cables, the charging system on your bike is going to go into overdrive trying to charge the dead battery. that's what kills your stator.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 07:03 AM
  #15  
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Default Agree with Mike

Deltrans "Battery Tender" the red light will just keep blinking if anything is preventing a complete charging connection. I don't use any other brand.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 10:16 AM
  #16  
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I was told by the Interstate battery distributor that a Battery had a 4 year life.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 10:27 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by skratch
that's not what he said. if your battery is very discharged, more than just your bike won't start discharged, and you jump start it, then even after you've removed the cables, the charging system on your bike is going to go into overdrive trying to charge the dead battery. that's what kills your stator.
The magnetic field being constant (magnets), do you think stator wires should burn if 1 or more phases are short or under full load?
A simple current limiter would then be welcome.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 10:35 AM
  #18  
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Best way to charge the battery is to take the bike out on the highway for a half hour or more. Get the stator cranking. Clears condensation out of the engine too. (you should get at least 5 years out of any battery if you ride the thing)
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 12:56 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by cromagnon
Best way to charge the battery is to take the bike out on the highway for a half hour or more. Get the stator cranking. Clears condensation out of the engine too. (you should get at least 5 years out of any battery if you ride the thing)
on my 07, that i put 40,000 miles on it in 3-1/2 years, still had the original battery in it when i traded it in. my 2010, had 25,000 and just a little less than 2 years when the original battery went **** up.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #20  
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I ''ride'' my bike and have not had a battery last more than 3 yrs. I use tenders and feel like that helps a lot. Probably short life span due to extreme heat here in Fl.
 
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