Help Remove/Replace Rear Wheel
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Bristow, VA
Help Remove/Replace Rear Wheel
Hey All,
Thanks up front for the help!
I want to save some cash, so will be taking off the rear wheel myself for a tire change at the dealership (for the future, will be looking for an Indy I can use for tire mounting another $50 or so savings).
So, have watched a video or two, but want to get "been there, done that" help.
From tools, remove, to replace what are your lessons learned from your own experience with rear wheel removal?
I bought a 36mm Kastar wrench. I have a center lift for the motorcycle, and was thinking of using my car jack to help lift/lower the rear wheel into/out of position.
Thanks again for any help!
Skippy
Thanks up front for the help!
I want to save some cash, so will be taking off the rear wheel myself for a tire change at the dealership (for the future, will be looking for an Indy I can use for tire mounting another $50 or so savings).
So, have watched a video or two, but want to get "been there, done that" help.
From tools, remove, to replace what are your lessons learned from your own experience with rear wheel removal?
I bought a 36mm Kastar wrench. I have a center lift for the motorcycle, and was thinking of using my car jack to help lift/lower the rear wheel into/out of position.
Thanks again for any help!
Skippy
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
Likes: 7,173
From: Oxford, Nc
Put an upside down bucket or similar object under the front wheel so when you remove the rear wheel, the weight shift to the front doesn't wobble the bike. Your 2011 is different form my 2000 so I'll leave those wheel removal instructions to other posters. Good Luck.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,036
Likes: 65
From: Earth
Hey All,
Thanks up front for the help!
I want to save some cash, so will be taking off the rear wheel myself for a tire change at the dealership (for the future, will be looking for an Indy I can use for tire mounting…another $50 or so savings).
So, have watched a video or two, but want to get "been there, done that" help.
From tools, remove, to replace…what are your lessons learned from your own experience with rear wheel removal?
I bought a 36mm Kastar wrench. I have a center lift for the motorcycle, and was thinking of using my car jack to help lift/lower the rear wheel into/out of position.
Thanks again for any help!
Skippy
Thanks up front for the help!
I want to save some cash, so will be taking off the rear wheel myself for a tire change at the dealership (for the future, will be looking for an Indy I can use for tire mounting…another $50 or so savings).
So, have watched a video or two, but want to get "been there, done that" help.
From tools, remove, to replace…what are your lessons learned from your own experience with rear wheel removal?
I bought a 36mm Kastar wrench. I have a center lift for the motorcycle, and was thinking of using my car jack to help lift/lower the rear wheel into/out of position.
Thanks again for any help!
Skippy
Also use some anti-seize on the axle when you reinstall.
Last edited by SpiderPig; Dec 25, 2013 at 10:51 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Jackson Louisiana
I just changed my rear wheel bearings and you have the right idea. Bucket in front and jack to help with lifting and you will b fine. I suggest removing bot mufflers as well. You may want to change your real wheel bearings while you are down. I had front failure a few months ago and changed my back just for insurance.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 3
From: Chesterfield, VA
Pretty straight forward. Few suggestions:
- Masking tape edges of rims to protect from scratches
- Use white-out or grease pencil to mark eccentric on clutch-side of axle and swing arm for proper belt tension
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 59
From: Chicagoland
It's likely you may not need to remove the exhaust at all. You might get lucky by just loosening the support hangers and working around it.
Others may have already told you this with other inquiries as well, but the service manual can really prove helpful with these types of projects. They provide illustrations, torque specs, etc.
Someone else already mentioned the belt tension. That's pretty critical to longevity, so it's important to be correct. Saving money by doing these repairs can often provide you the experience and better knowledge of your bike. That knowledge and experience will also make you a better rider, by better understanding how your machine works.
When I first started riding, I took advantage of these savings and spent the money saved, on service manuals, and the specialty tools to properly and efficiently do the work myself. Some guys will say that you don't need to spend $25 on the belt-tension tool, but after purchasing one and knowing how to use it, all doubt on the belt tension being correct or not, is completely removed. And now you own it, and can perform the check/ adjustment at your service intervals. One more step towards being independent, and not relying on a dealership. The manual usually goes for about $60-$70, and is a wealth of information on this, and many other easily performed tasks. It didn't take long to acquire a lot of specialty tools, a couple service jacks and a new table-lift, by learning how to do mods, service, and repairs by myself. All by saving money as well.
But just as some advice, you have to get the rear of the bike pretty high off the ground to get the rear tire clear of the fender. As others have said, chocking something under the front tire is almost a must if all you have is a service jack, with no table-lift.
Others may have already told you this with other inquiries as well, but the service manual can really prove helpful with these types of projects. They provide illustrations, torque specs, etc.
Someone else already mentioned the belt tension. That's pretty critical to longevity, so it's important to be correct. Saving money by doing these repairs can often provide you the experience and better knowledge of your bike. That knowledge and experience will also make you a better rider, by better understanding how your machine works.
When I first started riding, I took advantage of these savings and spent the money saved, on service manuals, and the specialty tools to properly and efficiently do the work myself. Some guys will say that you don't need to spend $25 on the belt-tension tool, but after purchasing one and knowing how to use it, all doubt on the belt tension being correct or not, is completely removed. And now you own it, and can perform the check/ adjustment at your service intervals. One more step towards being independent, and not relying on a dealership. The manual usually goes for about $60-$70, and is a wealth of information on this, and many other easily performed tasks. It didn't take long to acquire a lot of specialty tools, a couple service jacks and a new table-lift, by learning how to do mods, service, and repairs by myself. All by saving money as well.
But just as some advice, you have to get the rear of the bike pretty high off the ground to get the rear tire clear of the fender. As others have said, chocking something under the front tire is almost a must if all you have is a service jack, with no table-lift.
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: NorCal
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 27,096
Likes: 4,673
From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
When the bike is jacked where you want it and the jack safety stops are engaged, make sure you tie it down good and tight; might seem solid sitting on the jack (some jack companies claim you don't have to tie it down), but why take chances.
And to elaborate on previous suggestions -
Coat the whole axle except what sticks past the bearing on the outside with anti-seize, even where it doesn't contact metal, will help prevent rust. If you use anti-seize like me, you'll buy the bigger cans, not the tiny tubes, cheaper in the long run.
Unless I put them in last time, I change wheel bearings with tires, and always pry a plastic seal up so I can see that they have enough grease (yes, manufacturers can miss putting grease in - I've found a couple) and don't have plastic bearing cages. I replaced a wheel this summer that came with new bearings installed - they had plastic cages. Wheel got it's second set of bearings before it's first tire...
And to elaborate on previous suggestions -
Coat the whole axle except what sticks past the bearing on the outside with anti-seize, even where it doesn't contact metal, will help prevent rust. If you use anti-seize like me, you'll buy the bigger cans, not the tiny tubes, cheaper in the long run.
Unless I put them in last time, I change wheel bearings with tires, and always pry a plastic seal up so I can see that they have enough grease (yes, manufacturers can miss putting grease in - I've found a couple) and don't have plastic bearing cages. I replaced a wheel this summer that came with new bearings installed - they had plastic cages. Wheel got it's second set of bearings before it's first tire...
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 24,711
Likes: 9,214
From: Snow Hill, NC
I undo both rear muffler brackets at the back just so the pipes will lower enough to get the axle shaft out...On the 08 and up you can take the brake caliper off first, not on mine...I use disk brake bearing grease on my axle but anti seize is fine also...Mark the cam for belt tightness but also check it...My indy charges me $20-$25 per wheel so i will keep going there...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 27,096
Likes: 4,673
From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Don't have any photos with the Glide on it, but this one with a sporty shows that this jack has no problem lifting a bike high enough to clear a wheel. The wider lifting arms and base legs won't let the bike tip, either. It has a lowering valve sensitive enough you can lower it really slow, makes it easy to line up axles.
No horsing around the wheel, just drive the axle in with the holes lined up. And yeah, my grandkid did it while I guided it through the other side. Kids love hammers...
"I know what I said before, but you can hit it this time, really - just don't hit anything else..."
more with the kid here: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/members/178920-imold-albums-52275-my-mechanic.html
No horsing around the wheel, just drive the axle in with the holes lined up. And yeah, my grandkid did it while I guided it through the other side. Kids love hammers...
"I know what I said before, but you can hit it this time, really - just don't hit anything else..."
more with the kid here: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/members/178920-imold-albums-52275-my-mechanic.html