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I think I will take a shot at it. I have looked at all the videos, threads I could find and the manual. We'll see how it goes. I hope to order the exchange wheels next week and will be changing those at the same time. It will be the first time I have had the rear wheel off too.
the hardest part of the whole deal (for me) was getting the top cap started again after replacing everything. trying to keep the spring compressed, and twist the cap, well, lets just say that even wearing leather gloves, my palms still hurt 2 days later .....
thats where installing monotubes at this time would really, really, make your life easier.
there's a thread in here somewhere where a guy made a wooden jig to compress his fork springs so he could get those top caps started....
There's a thread in here somewhere where a guy made a wooden jig to compress his fork springs so he could get those top caps started....
There's 3 things that can be a real pain this has to be the biggest. If you stick with the stock springs it's a real pain to compress the fork tube cap and get the threads started. It's a two person job or use some type of wooden jig like I built. The best solution is mono tubes.
Second that 6mm screw supposedly is a pain unless you use an impact wrench. I used the impact and it was butter.
Lastly one of my legs was a pain to remove from the pinch bolts. There was a small bit of rust. Used a lot of WD-40 and a strap wrench. Also removing the front fender. Those little tabs have to be bent back.
Only other tools besides the impact needed are a long 6mm, a pvc pipe to set the new fork seals in, and perhaps a fork tube cap socket which makes for getting to fork tube cap bolts much easier.
I have a 2010 Street Glide with ABS and I want to order the chrome front
end kit. I want to confirm I have the correct part number to order it online. I don't want to make a dumb mistake. This is the part number I have for the kit. Does it look right to you folks?
45800034
KIT-FRT END,ABS,CHRM
HogPro was having a blowout on PM chrome lowers with the hidden axle about a week ago. I'd check with them before going with HD.
The monotubes sound great but I can't do it at the moment. I have the 6MM socket and access to an impact wrench. I'll look up the fork tube cap socket size and see about one of those too. I looked at the HogPro site but didn't see anything close to HD for the whole kit. I am doing the uppers and the lowers. Everything I saw had the fork tube cap coming off unless I missed something.
FWIW, If you do the lowers without changing springs you don't have to mess with the caps. They can be a pain to compress. Mike
huh? how does one do that?
Originally Posted by jackod
I'll look up the fork tube cap socket size and see about one of those too. I looked at the HogPro site but didn't see anything close to HD for the whole kit.
the cheap little flat stamped out rear axle nut wrench that hd used to give in the tool kit before they went to a 'multi tool' works just fine for that.
Depends on how you set fluid level to determine taking springs out. Factory way requires removal and measurement after pumping up. My way is measure what comes out and if it is close to spec, put same amount back and is filled through top cap nuts not spring nuts. usually i leave drain overnight and get out full amount. Mike
The monotubes sound great but I can't do it at the moment. I have the 6MM socket and access to an impact wrench. I'll look up the fork tube cap socket size and see about one of those too. I looked at the HogPro site but didn't see anything close to HD for the whole kit. I am doing the uppers and the lowers. Everything I saw had the fork tube cap coming off unless I missed something.
The fork tube cap socket is 1 3/8. I purchased a cheap combination wrench for the job as a socket of this size only comes in 3/4 drive. Its more expensive and you need to buy a separate 1/2 to 3/4 adapter to use your 1/2 ratchet.
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