Charging system issues
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 38
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From: Orlando, Fl
Charging system issues
I have a 87' Electra Glide. I changed the stator and rectifier. The stator has a burnt leg on it.
I'm only getting 12.1 to 12.4 volts to the battery, with a full charged battery, with the motor running with the headlight off. With headlight switch on. I get around a 11.6 to 11.8 volts to battery.
Is there anything I'm missing or over looking to make the system put out more volts. It doesn't even put out enough to keep the battery charged. Basically, I'm running off the power in the battery.
Any suggestions ???
Thank you,
Bikercouple
I'm only getting 12.1 to 12.4 volts to the battery, with a full charged battery, with the motor running with the headlight off. With headlight switch on. I get around a 11.6 to 11.8 volts to battery.
Is there anything I'm missing or over looking to make the system put out more volts. It doesn't even put out enough to keep the battery charged. Basically, I'm running off the power in the battery.
Any suggestions ???
Thank you,
Bikercouple
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
you can search the tech board for the exact specs, but check the stator for open or shorted
to test the system,
the battery must be good and fully charged
unplug the stator start the bike, measure the AC ( not DC) voltage at the stator plug, you should have 16 to 20 volts AC per 1000 rpms.
so if the motor is revved to 3000 rpms, you should see 44 to 60 volts ac
if not, it is pooched.
turn off.
connect the regulator, check the feed wire to the battery is not frayed, rubbed etc.
start bike...at motor speeds above 1500 rpms you should see about 14.6 volts coming out of the regulator to the battery ( less than 15 volts, more than the nominal "resting" voltage of the battery.
be aware that if the battery is duff, it may strain the charging system and damage the regulator and / or stator....and a duff battery will give screwy meter readings
when working on that stuff DO NOT use an impact tool, the magnets on the rotor can be knocked off...and destroy the stator
mike
to test the system,
the battery must be good and fully charged
unplug the stator start the bike, measure the AC ( not DC) voltage at the stator plug, you should have 16 to 20 volts AC per 1000 rpms.
so if the motor is revved to 3000 rpms, you should see 44 to 60 volts ac
if not, it is pooched.
turn off.
connect the regulator, check the feed wire to the battery is not frayed, rubbed etc.
start bike...at motor speeds above 1500 rpms you should see about 14.6 volts coming out of the regulator to the battery ( less than 15 volts, more than the nominal "resting" voltage of the battery.
be aware that if the battery is duff, it may strain the charging system and damage the regulator and / or stator....and a duff battery will give screwy meter readings
when working on that stuff DO NOT use an impact tool, the magnets on the rotor can be knocked off...and destroy the stator
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jan 18, 2014 at 12:12 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,525
Likes: 6,406
From: Honah Lee
Battery would need to get fairly low to cause problems, however, with the voltage you are getting, you have a real problem. Start with the 3 stator leads and check for proper AC at 2000rpm.. The regulator could be bad and pass AC on rather then diode convert it to DC. That will screw up everything...
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
It can do, but the battery has to have enough power to start it in the first place! Follow my previous post.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, Fl
I replaced the rotor, stator, and regulator with a 32 Instead of putting a 22 back on it. I have 14.2 volts to the battery at 1500 rpm's. That is a lot better. Thank you guys !!!
Thank you,
Bikercouple
Thank you,
Bikercouple
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